Burning Season in Chiang Mai: All you need to know
Updated: Apr 5
Sometimes called 'smoky' season, from February to May Thailand's northern regions, in particular Chiang Mai, are covered by a thick haze caused by agricultural burning and exacerbated by unregulated vehicles. So why does Chiang Mai have the worst air quality rating in the world at this time of year?
Read on for all you need to know about the causes of Smoky Season here in Thailand, when to avoid it, and what you can do to protect yourself from it if it catches you by surprise like it did us!
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What is Burning Season and why does it happen?
The main contributor to Chiang Mai's poor air quality at this time of year is not necessarily the usual suspects of fossil fuels, factories and polluting vehicles (although this is a factor). It is actually caused by agricultural farmers, primarily the burning of biowaste such as unsold corn.
This is practiced during the 'dry season' as there is hardly any rain for several months. In addition to burning waste, the farmers also use this time to set fire to cultivated farmland, clearing it for the next crop cycle. This process is in fact illegal in Thailand but farmers do this anyway as it is the most cost-effective way to deal with waste and land preparation, mainly owing to the lack of affordable alternatives.
In addition to it being a cheaper, the burning also paves the way for the growth of white mushrooms in mountainous areas, which are then exported to markets such as China and the United States. This is a valuable source of income for the farmers and makes it harder for the government to clamp down on the practice, despite the environmental damage and negative impact on people's health.
Chiang Mai, like many other major cities in Thailand, also suffers from lack of vehicle regulation and heavy congestion. Tuk-tuks, cars, motorcycles, songthaews and trucks all contribute heavily to the poor air quality. This existing problem only increases as travel and tourism peaks between October and February, adding to the city's traffic problems.
While much of the North of Thailand suffers from this smog, the city of Chiang Mai is particularly vulnerable as it is surrounded by the mountains of Doi Saket, Doi Suthep, Doi Khun Tan, and Doi Inthanon. They create a dense valley that traps the smog and literally blankets it over city. Even on a cloud-free day it feels gloomy. The heat is still palpable, but it is very hard to see the sun at times!
When is Burning Season in Thailand?
There is no exact start date for Burning Season, but typically it will start in November, owing to the start of the dry season. With no rain to clear the air, the smog eventually starts to cover the whole of the North. By February, when the heat is most intense (average temperatures start to hit 35 degrees Celsius / 95F), the air becomes much thicker and with barely any wind, the smoke and smog gets trapped.
As with the start, there is no particular end date to Thailand's Burning Season either, however 'rainy season' tends to start at the end of March / beginning of April. The rain and strong winds not only help to clear the smoke, but also mark the end of the burning and the beginning of the new growing season.
The end of the Burning Season in Chiang Mai can also coincide with the Songkran Water Festival, which is held on April 13th (the Thai New Year). This incredible festival involves people standing outside their houses with large tubs of cold water and hoses, waiting to douse literally anyone who walks past. It is totally friendly and huge fun, with parades also going through the streets, and locals even providing water filling stations for the public to use. Literally nowhere in the city is safe!
What can you do to protect yourself from the smoke?
⪢ Avoid the city: Perhaps not ideal if you are a local or are staying in Chiang Mai already, but highly advisable if you are planning to visit during smoky season. There are lots of great surrounding areas, such as Doi Saket, which still encounter the smoke but at a lower rate due to less vehicles and more open spaces.
⪢ Wear a mask: N95 masks are widely available and the most effective way to protect from the smoke if you are outside. They filter out 95% of harmful particles (hence the name) and can be found in most stores or online.
⪢ Use an air filter / purifier: This is a solid option for the home, as they actively filter the air around the home and can be invaluable if you are typically affected by poor air quality. They are relatively affordable in Thailand and can be found at most appliance stores and online too.
⪢ Stay indoors: The best way to avoid the smoke of Burning Season in Chiang Mai is simply to stay at home if you can. This is not a great option if you are keen to get out and explore, but in all honesty it is so hazy and smog-covered that you can not really see much which takes away from the experience.
If you need to go out, early morning or late evening is the best time. It is super hot and muggy anyway, so staying indoors with a good purifier and air-con is not exactly the worst solution! Plan for indoor activities, and try to keep doors and windows closed too.
⪢ Travel by car / taxi: One of the best (and most popular) ways to get around in Thailand is typically by motorcycle, a tuk-tuk or a songthaew. These are all open-air vehicles however, so should you need to go out during this time using a car or taking a cab is the safest bet.
Should you still come to Thailand during smoky season?
We have to admit, we knew nothing about smoky season before we came to Thailand. We arrived on December 25th and up until the end of January it was barely noticeable. We are staying in Doi Saket, which is just outside of Chiang Mai, 20-30 minutes east of the main city centre. It is far more rural here, so the air is slightly better, yet we are still barely able to see the surrounding mountains because of the haze.
We do smell the smoke, and we definitely try to avoid being outside for too long. As we are staying in Thailand long-term, this is not a big issue for us from an exploration point of view, although it is a little frustrating! It is also rather strange not really being able to feel the sunlight, be it indoors or outdoors. The heat is still there, but it is darker and gloomier, and we are very much looking forward to waking up to the bright light of the sun again!
Our final thought on Thailand's Smoky Season
We would still recommend visiting this spectacular country in any case, although perhaps staying in the south or near the coast would have been our choice in hindsight! We absolutely love Thailand and while we will always avoid visiting during this time for health reasons, we are keeping a close eye on the news for any developments.
Government ministers in Chiang Mai in particular have been putting forward proposals over the past year with regards to regulating polluting vehicles and developing more transport infrastructure to ease pollution-causing congestion. In addition, the government itself has been holding meetings with neighboring Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos in an attempt to find a way to stop the burning every year. We can only hope that these initiatives have an affect, and that for everyone's sake, Burning Season can be a relic of the past that is consigned to the environmental dustbin!
The Sanctuary of Truth is a marvel of intricate wooden architecture that left us totally awestruck. A feat of engineering that has no rival!
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