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Baan Dam (Black House Museum), Chiang Rai: A Dark & Fascinating Cultural Experience
- Jenn & Leon
- Mar 7, 2023
- 10 min read
Updated: Jul 21
Located in Nang Lae, Chiang Rai, the Black House Museum, or “Baan Dam” in Thai, is one of the strangest and most interesting places we have seen in Thailand to date.
We are not sure if we have ever seen anything quite like it!
Despite its dark and unnerving 'exhibits', we still think it is a must-see for anyone on a tour of Chiang Rai.
Often confused for a temple, the Black House is home to the world’s largest collection of animal remains made into furniture, taxidermy, and art installations.
While it wasn't designed to be evil or frightening, it is commonly thought to be the 'Hell Temple'.
This is due to its proximity and opposing style of the nearby White Temple (Wat Rong Khun), known as the 'Temple of Heaven'.
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Baan Dam Black House Museum Highlights
It was already a pretty imposing walk on the way to the museum, with the car park lined with black and red flags depicting fierce animal faces and streaked blood.
We knew there was an 'out there' reputation about the place, but we still didn't quite know what to expect.
When we made it to the entrance, we were immediately struck by the impressive height and stature of the main Cathedral.
It is exactly 44 meters high and 44 meters long and it is almost simplistic in design compared to other temples that we have encountered in Thailand.
Its sheer size is impressive though, and its dark black and brown painted wood certainly seems to overpower its surroundings with a heavy and looming energy.
The enormous black chairs almost felt frightening as we walked beneath the steep and dark gables of the main hall.
We were pretty wide-eyed walking around, not sure what to make of it all.
The art collections, featuring streaked blood and scary-looking animal faces, were displayed in each of the rooms' quadrants.
They added the only real color to what was otherwise a pretty dark and shady collection of horned furniture alongside some spectacular taxidermy.
The museum is the lifetime work of controversial Thai artist Thawan Duchanee.
He was a devout Buddhist, with all of the work displayed at the Black House portraying the cycle of life, death, and rebirth known as Samsara.
This cycle includes suffering, which is the main principle of the exhibits and architectural style.
We can relate to the principle of Duchanee's work; however, there is a rather over-elaborate, and certainly not discreet, amount of human appendage on display.
Most are just part of random statues; however, the bathrooms in particular have many of them.
We really did not understand this part of the exhibit, and it did make us feel uncomfortable. It is something to be aware of before your visit.
While he is celebrated now, Thawan Duchanee was not always popular.
His art has at many times drawn accusations of disrespect.
There have sadly even been physical attacks and vandalism over the years.
Despite its divisive nature, Duchanee was unrelenting in his vision, and his art was eventually defended and championed by many public figures.
He was recognized on a national level for his talent with several awards in 2001.
There was part of us that was expecting the usual Buddha statues, Nagas, lotuses, and elephants, but we found these to be in very short supply here.
We were greeted with a plethora of bones, skulls, shells, teeth, animal skins, and taxidermy, all arranged in an assortment of striking poses.
Even though we know that it was never Duchanee's intention for Baan Dam to be known as a 'hell temple', it is kind of hard to argue against the notion, given the nature of the 'art'.
The prominent theme of black coloring on most of the buildings also lends weight to this; however, we recently learnt that black was simply Duchanee's favorite color.
Ultimately, this is art, and art is expressive and impactful in many ways.
The controversy surrounding it only adds to its allure, and one could argue that no art is good art unless it provokes something.
Would you agree? Let us know what you think in the comments!
History and Facts About Baan Dam Museum
Thai artist Thawan Duchanee began construction on Baan Dam in 1976, and it is thought that all of Duchanee’s work represents the human suffering due to desire and greed that the Buddha saw along his travels.
There are many references to Buddhism, which lends weight to the claims that the house was not created to promote evil and Satanic impulses.
Baan Dam Museum has been constantly evolving over the past 40 years, and Duchanee's vision was always for it to be a national cultural arts centre.
With many of Thailand's Art Institutions offering scholarships to researchers here, alongside a growing number of visits from tourists and Thais alike, it does indeed feel like his goals are now being realised.
All of the buildings are constructed of wood and were exclusively designed by Duchanee.
There are some 40 structures in total covering an area of 160,000sqm.
Construction on the main Cathedral began in 1999 and took 7 years to build.
In addition to being a public museum, the Cathedral is also used as a place for drawing and recalling Buddhist doctrine.
The Tri Phum 'Triangle House' is the oldest structure on the site, with work starting in 1976.
It was destroyed 3 times by storms and took over 7 years of construction and restoration to be completed.
Thawan Duchanee was awarded the prestigious prize of National Thai Artist in Fine Art and Visual Art in 2001 by the Office of the National Culture Commission of Thailand.
He sadly passed away in 2014, but his legacy remains here at Baan Dam.
There is a shrine dedicated to him in the Cathedral.
Baan Dam Black House Museum Visiting Times
The Baan Dam Museum is open every day from 9 am to 5 pm, excluding national holidays.
The entrance fee is 80 baht per person, and the ticket gains you access to the entire site.
Tips for Visiting Baan Dam (Black House)
● Wear comfortable shoes: The museum complex is large and outdoors, with uneven wooden floors and stairs, so sturdy footwear is recommended.
● Respect the artwork and environment: Many pieces are delicate or symbolic. Photography is allowed in most areas, but avoid flash and touching exhibits.
● Allocate at least 1.5 to 2 hours: To fully appreciate the extensive and eclectic collection of buildings and art.
● Bring water and sun protection: Some parts of the complex are outdoors with little shade.
● Visit with a guide or audio guide if possible: To understand the symbolism and stories behind the unique art and architecture.
● Check opening hours before you go: The site is typically open daily, but hours can vary during holidays or special events.
How to Get to Baan Dam (Black House), Chiang Rai
Baan Dam, also known as the Black House, is an intriguing art museum located about 13 kilometers southeast of Chiang Rai city center.
By Car or Taxi
The easiest way to reach Baan Dam is by hiring a taxi or private car from Chiang Rai city.
The journey takes approximately 20–25 minutes via Route 1020.
Many local tour operators include Baan Dam in half-day or full-day Chiang Rai tours.
By Motorbike
Renting a motorbike is a flexible option for independent travelers comfortable with traffic and road conditions in northern Thailand.
The ride takes about 30 minutes from downtown Chiang Rai.
By Songthaew or Local Bus
There are limited public transport options directly to Baan Dam.
You can take a songthaew heading toward the Black House area, but confirm with the driver if they will stop there.
Alternatively, use a taxi for the last leg of the journey.
⪢ Consider Taking a Tour
Explore 3 of Chiang Rai's most beautiful temples on a full-day, guided tour.
See the White Temple, Black House, and the newly constructed Blue Temple and revel at their magnificence.
This tour includes lunch, transport by an air-conditioned vehicle, and hotel pickup and drop-off. This tour is also wheelchair accessible.
⪢ Contact Information for Baan Dam Black House Museum
● Address: 333 Nang Lae, อำเภอเมือง Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand
● Phone: +66 53 776 333
● Email: info@thawan-duchanee.com
● Open hours: 9am to 5pm daily
● Web: thawan-duchanee.com
Where to Stay in Chiang Rai
Looking for a place to stay nearby? Browse Chiang Rai hotel deals below to find great rates from top providers in the city.
Our map offers a user-friendly interface that allows you to zoom in and out, providing a comprehensive view of the area and enabling you to identify the most convenient hotel options based on your current location or desired destination.
Shocked in Chiang Rai! Watch on YouTube
We made it to Chiang Rai, Thailand, in Northern Thailand, and we were in for a SURPRISE!
In this travel vlog, we explore the Blue Temple and the quirky Black Temple.
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Our Experience Rating:
Baan Dam Black House Museum
Overall, we have mixed emotions about Baan Dam.
We respect art in all forms, but the expressive and dark nature of some of the installations left us feeling a little uneasy.
Unlike most museums, there was not much information pertaining to the exhibits, and we may have understood it all a little more had there been.
If we hadn't looked online prior, it would have been hard for us to understand the outbuildings and their purpose.
We would recommend visiting, but would probably advise against bringing children!
Baan Dam is indeed a unique piece of Thailand, and we would love to hear your thoughts if you do check it out.
FAQ: Visiting Baan Dam (Black House), Chiang Rai
What is Baan Dam (The Black House)?
Baan Dam is a museum complex and art installation created by the late Thai artist Thawan Duchanee.
It features over 40 black-themed buildings blending traditional Lanna architecture with dark, surreal artworks and animal remains.
Where is it located?
Baan Dam is in Chiang Rai Province, about 12 km north of Chiang Rai city center.
It’s in the Nong Luang village area and can be reached easily by car, motorbike, or tuk-tuk.
How much is the entrance fee?
● Adults: 80–100 THB
● Children/Students: Discounted or free depending on age
Prices may vary slightly but remain affordable.
💡 Bring cash, as card payments aren’t always accepted.
What are the opening hours?
Baan Dam is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm, with a lunch break closure from 12 pm to 1 pm.
Check locally during holidays as times may change.
How is it different from the White Temple?
While Wat Rong Khun (White Temple) symbolizes heaven and purity, Baan Dam represents death, darkness, and earthly truths.
It's an intentionally provocative contrast — many travelers visit both for the full experience.
Is it a religious site?
No, Baan Dam is not a temple.
It’s an art installation and private museum exploring themes like mortality, power, and Thai identity through sculpture, architecture, and design.
Can you take photos inside?
Yes, photography is allowed throughout most of the site. However, some interior spaces may restrict flash or tripod use, and respectful behavior is expected.
How long should I spend there?
Most visitors spend 1 to 1.5 hours exploring the grounds, though art enthusiasts may stay longer to absorb the deeper symbolism in the works.
Is it suitable for kids or sensitive viewers?
While not graphic, the site does feature animal skulls, hides, and darker artistic themes that may be unsettling to young children or sensitive individuals.
Is there a café or shop on-site?
Yes! Baan Dam includes a souvenir shop, coffee stall, and restrooms.
Nearby roadside stalls also sell local snacks, drinks, and art-related merchandise.
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Fascinating place to visit. Totally unexpected, and honestly, a little wierd. Youv'e got to really appreciate art to understand it I guess! Worth a visit? Yes, but maybe leave the kids at home haha!