Historic Edinburgh: Our Story in Scotland's Magical Gothic Capital City
- Jenn & Leon
- 9 hours ago
- 14 min read
Although we are not big Harry Potter fans, we were excited to explore the city said to be the home of one of the most successful novels in history.
Not just a favorite of J.K. Rowling, however, Edinburgh has also clearly been a favorite of human occupation, with evidence dating back a remarkable 8,500 years. Another big attraction (we are avid history buffs).
The capital of Scotland, the story of the city centers on the imposing Castle Rock, the looming hill home to the first place we explored in the city, the magnificent Edinburgh Castle.
As we made our way down Castle Street to the famous central hub of George Street, we were greeted with the stunning mix of church spires, gothic architecture, and cobbled streets so synonymous with this historic city.
In this post, we share our experience exploring Edinburgh beyond the castle walls, from wandering down hidden closes like Lady Stair’s Close to soaking in the atmosphere of the famous Royal Mile.
We also cover the city’s deep-rooted history, things to do, practical tips, and everything you need to know before visiting Scotland’s unforgettable capital.
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Our Highlights
Still buzzing from our visit to the castle overlooking the city, being down amongst the streets was just as exciting. It was a beautiful day, with the calm blue skies offering a lovely backdrop against the gothic stone architecture so synonymous with the city.
This was our first city exploration, this being part of our first road trip on our month-long first date.
Before heading to Edinburgh we had stopped off at Norham Castle, right on the border with England, and then at the lovely Royal Botanic Gardens on the outskirts of Edinburgh.
Between the historic castles and the blooming nature of the gardens, we had already been spoiled with adventure.
Yet we still had plenty of energy and enthusiasm for what we might discover on the Royal Mile. And we certainly were not disappointed!
Almost within moments we were greeted by a traditional bagpipe player outside of the High Court of Justiciary.
It was a really cool moment of cultural embrace. Like them or not, one cannot help but feel the sense of Scottish pride in every note.
As we walked towards the cathedral we had spotted from the heights of Castle Rock, we encountered statues and other street performers amongst the throngs of tourists and locals on this fine sunny day.
The cathedral really is something. It is one of Edinburgh’s most recognizable and historically significant buildings. Its distinctive crown-shaped spire makes it instantly stand out, and once you notice it, you will keep spotting it as you move through the Old Town.
Another standout feature of the city is the 'closes,' ancient spots that are fun to find and peek into. They are old shadowed corridors with stone walls rising on either side, dating back to the medieval period, when the city was tight and condensed.
We did not know the significance of them at the time, but after we found out, they were vital arteries for connecting homes, workshops, and courtyards. They often frame incredible views and have a slightly darker history. More on closes later in this post...
Aside from street performers and ancient architecture full of tales and stories, we also enjoyed checking out famous red telephone boxes, drinks at a local restaurant, kirkyards (more on those later too), and monument hunting, and we even found time for some billiards before heading out of the city.
Just a short 10-minute walk from Castle Street, you can find Marco's Pool Hall, a chill spot that attracted us with its American pool offering (with Jenn being from Canada, this was cool!).
Drink prices are reasonable, and the pool hall itself is well-maintained with decent tables. Worth a stop-off if you have time!
And with that, we got back in the car to head to our next destination. We were heading towards the stunning Cairngorms National Park as we ventured further north towards Inverness.
Edinburgh was a fantastic stop, and we could have easily spent more than just the few hours we did in the city. It is walkable, atmospheric, energetic, and full of surprises for us. No doubt you will find your own!
Read on for a lowdown of the intriguing history of the city, things to do, tips for visiting, and where to stay and, as ever, our experience rating.
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The Intruiging History of Edinburgh
Edinburgh is one of Europe’s most historically layered cities, shaped by centuries of conflict, power, culture, and its Braveheart warrior-style resistance to occupation and conquest.
⪢ The Origins
The city’s origins trace back to the Iron Age, with early settlers, the Gododdins, occupying Castle Rock, a volcanic crag that would later become the foundation for Edinburgh Castle.
Its strategic position made it a natural stronghold, and by the 7th century, it was known as “Din Eidyn,” a fortified settlement of the Gododdin people.
⪢ The Angles
Enter the Angles, the Germanic people from the Angeln Peninsula in northern Germany who invaded 5th-century Britain, left undefended at the time after the withdrawal of the Roman Empire.
They conquered most of Roman Britannia, creating Anglo-Saxon England and founding kingdoms like Northumbria and Mercia. It was they who gave their name to both England ("Land of the Angles") and the English language
It was the Angles who attacked the Gododdins and invaded the fort at Castle Rock, sparking centuries of battles between the English and the Scots.
The Angles took the name “Eiden” and joined it to "Burh," an old English word meaning "fort," therefore creating the name of Edinburgh. The fort and the region were not recaptured by the Scots until 1018, almost 300 years later.
⪢ A Royal Trade Hub
By the 12th century, King David I established Edinburgh as a royal burgh, encouraging trade and development. Commerce began to grow, with wool becoming a prime export from Port Leith, along with leather goods. Cattle were sold in Cowgate and hay in Grassmarket.
During this period Old Town began to take shape, particularly along the famous street we walked down, now known as the Royal Mile.
⪢ The Medieval Period
Medieval Edinburgh was dense, chaotic, and often dangerous. After numerous attacks from the English, the Flodden Wall was built, although it was breached many times over the years.
With limited space within the city walls, buildings grew upward instead of outward, many stone houses hosting wooden structures on top as the city grew upward.
This gave rise to the towering tenements and narrow alleyways known as “closes,” like Lady Stair’s Close, which we unknowingly stumbled upon.
These passageways weren’t originally the humble shortcuts we use them as today. They too would have been living spaces, often overcrowded and unsanitary. A picture not many of us could imagine as we pass through now.
⪢ War and Disease
The city played a central role in Scotland’s turbulent past, particularly during the Wars of Scottish Independence in the late 13th and early 14th centuries.
Edinburgh Castle changed hands multiple times between the Scots and the English, becoming a powerful symbol of resistance but also causing huge damage to the city.
Despite the ongoing battles, the population of the city swelled to over 50,000 during this time, driven by its trade potential and a growing sense of national independence.
This influx resulted in overcrowding and the deterioration of Old Town, with the bubonic plague, typhus, and cholera rampant. Waste management and sanitation policies were almost non-existent.
By the 18th century, the wars were over, and Scotland was independent, albeit as part of the Treaty of Union of 1707, which created the Kingdom of Great Britain.
At this point, a war-ravaged country and devastated economy were ripe for development. With city walls no longer needed, a bold urban planning project transformed Edinburgh into a city of elegance and symmetry.
⪢ Redevelopment, and the Rise of the Capital
Wide streets, neoclassical architecture, and open squares contrasted sharply with the medieval maze of the Old Town. The now 'New Town' was finished at the beginning of the 19th century, and by 1850 the population of the city was fast approaching 200,000.
Calton Hill, the Scottish National Gallery, and the Scott Monument were constructed during this period, and by the end of the 20th century, museums, department stores, and other top attractions for tourists flourished.
On 1 July 1999 the Scottish Parliament was officially opened by the Queen, and it reconvened after an astonishing 292 years. The Scots would finally be able to make their own laws regarding health, education, and social care. The new building at Holyrood was inaugurated in 2004.
⪢ Edinburgh Today
Today, both the Old and New Towns of Edinburgh are official UNESCO World Heritage Sites, recognized for their architectural and cultural significance.
Walking through Edinburgh now, you are moving through layers of history, from ancient volcanic foundations to enlightenment-era ambition, all still very much alive in the streets.
🎟️ Consider Taking a Tour in Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a city best experienced on foot, and guided walking tours are one of the easiest ways to uncover its history, hidden closes, and Gothic atmosphere. Many tours explore the Old Town in depth, bringing the stories behind the architecture to life.
Things to Do in Edinburgh
Edinburgh is not merely a photograph and checklist kind of city. Step by step, street by street, there are plenty of things to do here and experience.
The real magic, like that which inspired J.K. Rowling, reveals itself in the details, the alleyways, the performers, the architecture, and the unexpected moments in between.
Whether it is your first visit or you are returning with a different pace in mind, trust us, this list is by no means exhaustive!
Walk the Royal Mile
The Royal Mile is the backbone of Edinburgh’s Old Town, stretching from Edinburgh Castle down to Holyrood Palace. It is where you will feel the city at its most alive, packed with performers, shops, historic buildings, and hidden entryways.
Explore the Closes
Step away from the main street and you will find yourself in narrow alleyways that feel like stepping into another century. Closes like Lady Stair’s Close offer a quieter, more atmospheric side of the city that many visitors tend to rush past.
Yet these incredible passageways are steeped in history, with many of them offering shelter and framing wonderful views. They served as vital connections in a city that was built upward, surrounded by defensive walls, with limited expansion potential.
Historically, these spaces were not always romantic. They were living spaces to some of the poorest people in the city back in medieval times and were often overcrowded, unsanitary, and dangerous, especially during outbreaks like the plague.
Today, they are preserved as part of Edinburgh’s identity, offering a rare, tangible connection to how the city once functioned.
Visit Edinburgh Castle
Dominating the skyline, Edinburgh Castle is the city’s most iconic landmark. Even if you’ve already visited, seeing it from below and watching how it frames the city is part of the experience.
Watch Street Performers
From bagpipers to living statues, Edinburgh’s streets are full of performers who add energy and character to the city. Some feel traditional, others theatrical, but all contribute to the atmosphere.
Stop for a Drink on the Royal Mile
Find a seat, order a drink, and watch the world go by. Whether it is gin, whisky, or something simple, this is one of the best ways to slow down and actually take in Edinburgh.
Being a major tourist hub, especially places on the Royal Mile, expect to pay a tad more than usual for food and beverages. Fairly normal for places like these, but in our opinion, totally worth it for the atmosphere and experience.
Spot the Iconic Red Telephone Boxes
A classic British image that still feels surreal when you see it in person. These bright red boxes stand out against the muted tones of Edinburgh’s stone buildings.
Fun fact, Leon used to reclaim and sell these boxes in his old job at a salvage/reclamation yard in Towcester, Northamptonshire!
Visit Greyfriars Kirkyard
One of the most atmospheric graveyards in the UK, known for its history, legends, and links to literature. Dating back to the 16th century, the graveyard is the final resting place of some of the city’s most notable figures, but it is best known for its darker past.
One of the most haunting areas is the Covenanters’ Prison, where hundreds of Scottish Presbyterians were held in brutal conditions in the late 1600s. This part of the kirkyard is often linked to ghost stories and is considered one of the most eerie corners of the city.
You will also find the story of Greyfriars Bobby, the loyal Skye Terrier who is said to have guarded his owner’s grave for years. Just outside the kirkyard gates, his statue has become one of Edinburgh’s most recognizable and quietly touching landmarks.
Some of the names on the gravestones are said to have inspired characters in the Harry Potter series, adding another layer of intrigue for those who know where to look.
Visit St Cuthbert’s Church & Graveyard
Just below the castle, St. Cuthbert's Church and its graveyard offer a completely different pace to the Royal Mile. Surrounded by greenery and framed by the city’s dramatic skyline, in the shadows of the castle, it feels almost hidden despite its central location.
It is one of the oldest continually used sites of worship in the city, with a church likely established in the 7th century. The stone arches shown were built to support a footpath running through the cemetery.
See the Scott Monument
Rising dramatically above Princes Street, the Scott Monument is one of the tallest monuments dedicated to a writer anywhere in the world, and it feels every bit as imposing as Edinburgh’s skyline suggests.
Built in the mid-19th century in honor of Sir Walter Scott, the monument reflects the same gothic style that defines much of the city.
Its darkened stone, intricate carvings, and sharp spires almost make it look like a cathedral rather than a tribute.
At its base, you will find a large seated statue of Scott himself, carved from white marble, often accompanied by his dog, Maida.
What makes it stand out is not just its height but also the incredible attention to detail.
The monument is decorated with dozens of sculpted figures from Scott’s novels, each representing characters from his stories.
Even if you are not familiar with his work, the craftsmanship alone is worth taking a moment to appreciate.
If you are up for it, you can climb the monument. The staircase is narrow and steep, winding its way up through the structure, but the reward is one of the best viewpoints in the city.
From the top, you get a unique perspective over Princes Street Gardens, the Old Town skyline, and Edinburgh Castle in the distance.
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Tips for Visiting Edinburgh
Edinburgh is compact but layered, and how you explore it makes a big difference.
● Wear proper footwear: The streets are cobbled and uneven, often steep, and can get slippery, especially in wet weather.
● Look beyond the main street: The closes and side streets are where the real character of the city reveals itself.
● Visit early or later in the day: The Royal Mile gets busy quickly, especially in peak season.
● Expect changing weather: Even on a sunny day, conditions can shift quickly.
● Take time to pause: Edinburgh is not a city to rush. Some of the best moments come from simply sitting and watching.
How to Get There
Edinburgh is one of the most accessible cities in the UK, whether you are arriving internationally or traveling within Britain.
Here are a few of the travel options:
By Air
The main gateway is Edinburgh Airport (EDI), located around 13 km west of the city centre.
From the airport, you can reach the centre via tram, bus, or taxi in around 30 minutes.
By Train
Edinburgh Waverley Station sits right in the heart of the city, just below the Old Town.
It connects directly to major UK cities, including London, Glasgow, and Manchester.
Check out London to Edinburgh schedules here.
By Car
Driving into Edinburgh is straightforward, but parking in the Old Town can be difficult. If you plan to explore the city centre, it is often easier to park outside and walk or use public transport.
If you are planning a wider Scotland road trip, consider comparing rental options here.
Getting Around
Once you are in the city, walking is the best way to explore. Most major attractions are within walking distance, and wandering is part of the experience.
Where to Stay
Choosing where to stay depends on the type of experience you want.
● Old Town: Stay here if you want to be surrounded by history and within walking distance of major attractions. It is lively, atmospheric, and central.
● New Town: A quieter, more elegant area with wider streets and a more relaxed pace, while still being close to everything.
● Near the Royal Mile: Ideal if you want to step straight into the heart of Edinburgh’s energy, with easy access to restaurants, attractions, and nightlife.
To find the best deals across all areas, explore available stays here:
Our Experience Rating:
Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a city that still sits amongst our favorites, not just for its incredible history and beauty, but also because it was the first city we really ever explored together. So it holds a huge sentimental value!
But, make no mistake, whether this city is your first explorative moment or, indeed, just a new adventure, in our opinion it will not disappoint. This is a capital that feels like a step back in time, one that retains its culture and value in ways many modern cities struggle to do.
Edinburgh is a top tourist hub for a reason, and not just for Harry Potter (although it perhaps owes him a huge debt). Add this great city to your U.K. itinerary. There is no disappointment to be had here. Only exceptional adventure and happy memories!
If you are planning more time in Scotland, explore our full collection of Scotland travel blogs where we share castle visits, road trips, and hidden gems across the country.
💡 For a wider trip across the continent, you can also explore our Europe travel hub for destination ideas, guides, and travel planning resources.
FAQ: Edinburgh
Before diving into the details, here are some of the most common questions about visiting Edinburgh, based on both research and our own experience exploring the city.
Is Edinburgh worth visiting?
Absolutely. Edinburgh offers a unique mix of history, architecture, and atmosphere that is hard to replicate anywhere else. The city feels immersive, not just something you visit, but something you experience.
How many days do you need in Edinburgh?
Two to three days is ideal for exploring the main highlights at a comfortable pace. If you want to dive deeper or take day trips, you could easily spend longer.
What is Edinburgh famous for?
Edinburgh is known for its historic Old Town, Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile, and its festivals. It is also famous for its gothic architecture and literary heritage.
Is the Royal Mile touristy?
Yes, but for good reason. While it can be busy, it is also one of the most historic and vibrant streets in the city. Step into the closes to escape the crowds.
What are “closes” in Edinburgh?
Closes are narrow alleyways that connect the Royal Mile to other streets or courtyards. Many date back to medieval times and were once densely populated living spaces.
Is Edinburgh walkable?
Very much so. Most of the city’s main attractions are within walking distance, although the terrain can be steep in places.
When is the best time to visit Edinburgh?
Spring and early autumn offer a good balance of weather and crowds. Summer is lively but busy, especially during festival season.
Is Edinburgh expensive?
It can be, especially in peak seasons. However, there are plenty of free attractions and ways to explore the city on a budget.
Can you visit Edinburgh in one day?
You can see the highlights in a day, but it will feel rushed. The city is best experienced at a slower pace.
Is Edinburgh safe for tourists?
Yes, Edinburgh is generally very safe. As with any city, stay aware of your surroundings, particularly in busy areas.
Related Reads
If Edinburgh has sparked your curiosity for Scotland, these posts will help you go deeper into the country’s castles, landscapes, and iconic experiences:
Discover our first stop heading north at Norham Castle, a dramatic border fortress packed with history
Plan your trip with our FREE Scotland travel guide, covering transport, culture, and essential tips
Dive into the capital’s most iconic landmark with our highlights from the historic Edinburgh Castle
Step into royal history at Balmoral Castle in Cairngorms National Park, still used by the Royal Family today
Explore a quieter side of the city at the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, which sits just outside of the city
Browse more globally significant landmarks in our UNESCO World Heritage Sites collection
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