Durres, Albania: Roman Ruins, Seaside Aperols, and Why This Coastal City Is One to Watch
- Jenn & Leon
- Jan 24
- 13 min read
Albania did not exactly roll off the tongue as our next destination. Yet in June 2022, we arrived planning to stay two months and left wanting more.
After time in Georgia, the Balkans called, and Albania delivered. Tirana surprised us with its buzz, and Durrës sealed the deal with ancient ruins, a relaxed seaside rhythm, and quiet reminders of a turbulent past.
That feeling has since been echoed on a global scale. A recent Wanderlust poll of over 200,000 readers in 2025 named Albania the number one emerging destination for 2026.
Standing on the Durrës seafront with an Aperol in hand, Roman history underfoot, and the Adriatic stretching out ahead, it was easy to see why.
This blog is about showcasing Durrës through our eyes. The iconic sights, the overlooked details, and the atmosphere that made us slow down and stay longer than planned.
In this post, we share our experience exploring Durrës, Albania, from Roman ruins and seaside evenings to communist-era trains, practical travel tips, history, and why this city fits Albania’s rising reputation.
In This Post...
Why Durrës Is Albania’s Coastal Standout
Durrës is one of those places that does not shout for attention. In many ways, it does not need to.
The city blends working port life with long beaches, crumbling walls, and one of the largest Roman amphitheaters in the Balkans. It feels lived in, not polished for tourists, and that was part of the appeal, for us at least.
When we visited, it was intensely hot. The kind of heat that slows your steps and pushes you toward shaded cafés and the sea. We aren't major beach loungers, but we actually made an exception here!
There are plenty of beachside establishments to choose from, and while the beach does have its fair share of sunbeds scattered around, it does not feel overbearing like some places.
Evenings were for long walks along the boulevard, seaside drinks, and watching the light soften over the water. For an up-and-coming destination, Durrës still feels refreshingly unpretentious. Not necessarily off the beaten path, but subtle enough to feel like it.
A Deeper Look at Durrës’ History
Durrës is not just old; it is continuously old. Founded in the 7th century BC by Greek settlers, it later became the Roman city of Dyrrachium, one of the most important ports on the Adriatic.
This was not a decorative outpost. It was strategic. Goods, armies, and ideas passed through here as part of the Via Egnatia, the major Roman road linking the Adriatic coast to Byzantium.
Under Roman rule, Durrës flourished. The amphitheater, city walls, and public infrastructure reflected its importance.
When you stand inside the amphitheater today, what strikes you is not just its size but also its placement. It sits awkwardly among apartment blocks, partially hidden, almost forgotten.
That tells you everything about Albania’s modern history. For decades, archaeology took a back seat to survival.
After the Roman and Byzantine periods, Durrës passed through Venetian and Ottoman control before entering one of the most isolating communist regimes in Europe.
Enver Hoxha’s rule cut Albania off from the outside world for decades. Investment stopped. Infrastructure froze. Trains, buildings, and public systems were maintained just enough to function but never modernized.
What you see today is the result. A city where ancient ruins, Ottoman traces, communist relics, and modern cafés all exist side by side. Durrës does not polish its past. It lives with it.
Highlights From Our Time in Durrës
⪢ The Roman Amphitheatre
Tucked into the modern city, the Roman amphitheater is impossible to ignore once you find it. Built in the 2nd century AD, it once held up to 20,000 spectators. Standing inside, surrounded by everyday life, you feel the weight of time in a very real way.
⪢ Walking the Old City Walls
We wandered along the remaining sections of the ancient walls, imagining the city as it once was. These quiet corners contrast sharply with the busy port nearby and reward anyone willing to explore on foot.
⪢ Statues on the Beach
Along the seafront, statues of Roman soldiers stand watch, blending history with leisure. It is an unusual sight. Ancient figures overlooking sunbeds, beach bars, and evening strolls.
⪢ The Old Trains of Durrës
One of the most unexpected sights was the railway. Old, weathered trains still operate here, complete with bullet-scarred carriages that hint at Albania’s recent past.
They are not a museum piece. They are part of daily life. It is a stark, fascinating reminder of how quickly history shifts in this country.
⪢ Food, Drinks, and Easy Evenings
We ate well in Durrës. From casual meals to a great stop at Wild West Taco, the food scene felt relaxed and affordable. Evenings often ended with Aperols on the beach, watching the city wind down.
⪢ Durrës Archaeological Museum
Just a short walk from the seafront, the Durrës Archaeological Museum adds depth to everything you see around the city.
The museum houses artifacts from Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods, including sculptures, mosaics, and everyday objects that bring ancient Durrës into focus.
The Trains of Durrës: Frozen in Time
One of the most striking and unexpected parts of Durrës was the railway. These are not nostalgic heritage trains brought out for tourists. They are working trains, many of them decades old, some still bearing visible bullet holes and battle scars from Albania’s unrest in the 1990s.
Why are they still running?
Because they are cheap, practical, and familiar. During communism, Albania built rail infrastructure to move people and goods internally, not to impress outsiders. When the regime collapsed, there was no immediate funding to replace it. So the trains stayed.
Tickets cost next to nothing. Comfort is basic. Speed is slow. But for locals, they are reliable and accessible. For visitors, they offer something rare in Europe... A glimpse into everyday transport that has barely changed in decades.
Standing near the tracks, watching these carriages roll past, felt surreal. Sun umbrellas on the beach, history rattling past on the other side of it. It is one of those details and quirks that makes Durrës unforgettable!
Things to Do in Durrës
Durrës is not about ticking off attractions. It is about layering experiences. History, beach life, and everyday moments overlap constantly, which is what makes it memorable.
⪢ Explore the Roman Amphitheater
This is the most important historical site in Durrës and one of the most striking we have visited anywhere in the Balkans. Built in the 2nd century AD, the amphitheater once held up to 20,000 spectators.
Today, it sits partially hidden among modern buildings, which makes the experience feel raw and unfiltered. Take your time here. The scale only really sinks in when you walk its edges.
⪢ Walk the Ancient City Walls
Fragments of Durrës’ defensive walls remain scattered around the city. Walking these sections gives you a sense of how strategically important the city once was.
These quieter spots offer a break from the heat and crowds and reward slow exploration.
⪢ Stroll the Seafront Promenade
The promenade is where Durrës slows down. Families walk, couples linger, and cafés fill as the sun drops. It is the best place to feel the city’s rhythm, especially in the early evening when the heat eases.
⪢ See the Roman Statues on the Beach
Along the beachfront, statues of Roman soldiers stand overlooking the Adriatic. It is an unexpected detail and one that perfectly captures Durrës’ character. Ancient history framed by modern leisure.
⪢ Experience the Old Trains
Even if you do not ride them, seeing the old train carriages near the tracks is worth it. These communist-era trains, some still bearing scars from the 1990s unrest, are part of daily life. They offer a rare, unpolished glimpse into Albania’s recent past.
⪢ Eat Well Without Overthinking It
Durrës has a relaxed food scene that does not try to impress. Seafood, simple grills, and long dinners by the sea are the norm. Follow where locals eat.
⪢ Enjoy Aperols by the Beach
This became a ritual for us. As evening arrives, beach bars fill with people unwinding. Aperols, sea air, and unhurried conversations sum up Durrës perfectly.
⪢ Use Durrës as a Base for Tirana
Durrës works well on its own, but pairing it with Tirana adds contrast. The capital’s energy, museums like Bunk’Art, and Skanderbeg Square are an easy day trip and deepen your understanding of Albania.
Where to Stay in Durrës
We stayed in an Airbnb during our visit, but Durrës has a wide range of accommodation, from simple guesthouses to beachfront hotels.
For current hotel options and exact locations near the beach or old town, use our interactive map:
Powered by Stay22, you can easily compare prices and choose the right area based on your travel needs. Compare hundreds of options from the likes of Expedia and Booking.com.
How to Get to Durrës
Durrës is one of the easiest places to reach in Albania, which is part of why it works so well as an introduction to the country.
From Tirana
Durrës is around 35 to 45 minutes from Tirana by car, depending on traffic. Minibuses and buses run frequently throughout the day from Tirana’s regional terminals. There is no rigid timetable. You go when the bus fills. This is normal in Albania and works surprisingly well.
Taxis are affordable by European standards, especially if you are sharing the ride.
From Tirana International Airport
The airport is closer to Durrës than Tirana itself. A taxi or private transfer usually takes around 30 minutes. This makes Durrës a very easy first stop if you want to recover from travel before heading deeper into the country.
By Train
The train exists, but this is not a time-efficient option. It is slow and basic. However, if you are curious about Albania’s past and want to experience local transport as it really is, it is worth doing once. Treat it as an experience, not a transfer.
For onward travel across Albania or into neighboring countries, we recommend checking routes in advance using:
12Go: booking.closerlives.com
Car Rental
Whether you're planning scenic road trips or quick rides around town, renting a car or scooter can save time. Rentalcars.com helps you find the best deals from reputable providers.
⪢ Planning Onward Travel from Durrës
If Albania is part of a longer journey, planning onward transport in advance can save time and frustration.
Routes, schedules, and ticket availability are not always clearly posted at stations, especially for cross-border travel.
We recommend using our booking platform, powered by 12Go, to check routes, compare transport options, and understand realistic travel times before you move on.
It is particularly helpful for planning buses, ferries, and onward connections across Albania and into neighboring countries in the Balkans.
This is not about booking everything ahead. It is about knowing what exists, what does not, and how long journeys actually take. That small bit of preparation makes slow travel in this region far easier.
Staying Connected in Albania
We recommend using an eSIM in Albania rather than relying on public Wi-Fi or buying a local SIM on arrival.
For this trip, Holafly stands out as a solid option for Albania and the wider Balkans, especially if you want easy setup and reliable data without swapping SIM cards.
For a full breakdown of options, including comparisons, visit our dedicated guide:
Travel Insurance We Actually Recommend
Travel insurance is one of those things you hope you never need, until suddenly you really do. Even in a relaxed destination like Durrës, things can go wrong quickly.
Extreme heat, unfamiliar healthcare systems, transport delays, or a simple accident can turn a smooth trip into a stressful one.
We use and recommend SafetyWing Nomad Insurance because it is designed for real travel, not just short holidays. It offers flexible coverage for long stays, medical emergencies, and unexpected disruptions, without locking you into rigid start and end dates.
That flexibility matters when you travel slowly or change plans often, like we do.
SafetyWing also works well across the Balkans and wider Europe, making it a practical option if Albania is part of a longer trip rather than a one-off stop.
If you want a deeper explanation of what travel insurance actually covers, when it matters most, and what to look out for as a long-term or independent traveler, we break it all down here:
This is one of those things that feels optional until it really is not.
Considering Tirana Too?
If you are visiting Durrës, pairing it with Tirana makes perfect sense. The capital is energetic, creative, and full of stories.
Highlights worth adding to your itinerary:
Street cafés and nightlife
Colorful architecture and local markets
We will be sharing more on Tirana in the future, but together, the two cities offer a well-rounded introduction to Albania.
Practical Tips for Visiting Durrës
⪢ Plan around the heat, not the clock
Summer in Durrës is intense. By midday, the heat can drain your energy fast. We found mornings and early evenings best for exploring ruins and walking the old walls, with the afternoon reserved for the beach or shade.
⪢ Walking is easy, but not polished
Durrës is walkable, especially along the seafront and central areas, but pavements can be uneven and unfinished in places. Comfortable shoes make a real difference if you plan to wander beyond the promenade.
⪢ Carry water when sightseeing
Historic sites like the Roman amphitheater offer little shade. Shops are nearby, but having water with you avoids cutting visits short in the heat.
⪢ Do not expect strict schedules
Buses and minibuses run frequently, but not by the minute. This can feel chaotic at first, but it works. Trains are slow and unpredictable, which is part of their character rather than a fault.
💡 Durrës works best when you aren't trying to optimize it
⪢ Meals are unhurried and social
Dinner in Durrës is not rushed. People linger, talk, and order another drink. If you are used to fast service, adjust your expectations and lean into the rhythm.
⪢ Cash still matters
Many places accept cards, but smaller restaurants and cafés may not. ATMs are easy to find, and carrying some cash makes things smoother.
⪢ English is improving; patience goes far
English is common in tourist areas but not guaranteed everywhere. Locals are friendly and patient. Even basic attempts at Albanian are warmly received.
⪢ The city rewards wandering
Some of our favorite moments came from walking without a plan. Quiet streets, unexpected statues, and glimpses of history appear when you slow down.
Interesting Facts About Durrës
⪢ Albania’s oldest city still living in the present
Durrës has been continuously inhabited for more than 2,500 years. This is not a preserved relic. People live, work, and relax on top of layers of Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, and communist history.
⪢ A Roman amphitheatre hidden in plain sight
The Roman amphitheater of Durrës once held up to 20,000 spectators, yet today it sits quietly among apartment blocks. It is one of the largest in the Balkans and one of the most unexpectedly placed we have ever seen.
⪢ A gateway city to the Roman Empire
Durrës was the western starting point of the Via Egnatia, the major Roman road linking the Adriatic to Byzantium. This made the city one of the most strategically important ports in the ancient world.
⪢ A port that still shapes daily life
Durrës is Albania’s largest port, and it is not tucked away from the city. Ferries, cargo ships, and industry sit alongside beaches and cafés, giving the city a distinctly working, lived-in feel.
⪢ A city shaped by earthquakes, not just empires
Major earthquakes have repeatedly damaged and reshaped Durrës, most recently in 2019. This constant rebuilding explains why ancient ruins and modern buildings are so tightly woven together.
⪢ Communist-era infrastructure that never got replaced
Many public systems in Durrës, including rail, were built during Albania’s isolation under Enver Hoxha. After communism collapsed, replacement was not a priority. What exists today is practical, aging, and still in use.
⪢ Trains that feel frozen in time
The train carriages in and around Durrës are among the oldest still operating in Europe. Some still show scars from Albania’s unrest in the 1990s. They are slow, basic, and incredibly cheap, offering a rare look at everyday transport that has barely changed.
⪢ A beach city for locals first, tourists second
Unlike many Mediterranean destinations, Durrës is primarily a holiday spot for Albanians. That keeps prices lower and the atmosphere more grounded and relaxed.
⪢ Long, sandy beaches rather than dramatic cliffs
Durrës does not have the rugged drama of southern Albania, but its beaches are wide, accessible, and easy to enjoy, especially for long stays.
⪢ An emerging destination still finding its feet
Durrës is only just appearing on international radars. Its inclusion in Albania’s rise as a top emerging destination feels timely, before mass tourism reshapes it.
Frequently Asked Questions About Durrës
Is Durrës worth visiting, or should I head straight south?
Durrës offers context. It helps you understand Albania before you chase beaches or mountains. We would not skip it.
How many days do you need in Durrës?
Two to three days works well. Enough to explore the history, enjoy the beach, and slow down without feeling rushed.
Does Durrës feel too industrial because of the port?
The port is visible, but it does not overwhelm the city. Life continues around it, which gives Durrës its lived-in feel.
How does Durrës compare to Tirana?
Tirana is energetic and creative. Durrës is slower and more reflective. Together, they offer a balanced introduction to Albania.
Is the Roman amphitheater really worth visiting?
Yes. Not because it is perfectly preserved, but because it is woven into everyday life. It is one of the most striking examples of ancient history coexisting with the modern city.
Are the old trains safe to use?
They are safe but basic. Expect slow journeys, minimal comfort, and a very local experience.
Why are train tickets so cheap?
The rail system has seen little modernization since the communist era. Low operating costs and local use keep prices extremely low.
Is Durrës good for solo travelers?
Yes. It feels safe, social, and easy to navigate. Evenings along the promenade are especially comfortable solo.
Is it family-friendly?
Very. The beaches are calm, the city is flat, and many locals holiday here with children.
Does Durrës feel like an emerging destination?
Yes, in the best way. It feels on the edge of wider discovery, not yet shaped by mass tourism.
Why Durrës Fits Albania’s Rising Reputation
Albania topping Wanderlust’s emerging destination poll makes sense when you experience Durrës. It is not trying to compete with Italy or Greece. It does not need to.
It offers something different. A place where history is not curated, prices are still reasonable, and everyday life continues around you.
Durrës is not a postcard city. It is a place you feel. And once you do, it is hard not to want more.
A major up-and-coming destination in 2026... we were there several years ago, and it is easy to see why! Highly recommend for digital nomads and general tourists.