Our first scam in India, SIX in a rickshaw, Connaught Place, and a VERY unique restaurant!
Updated: Apr 7
The day had finally arrived! Our first excursion in New Delhi, with our friends Jackson and Marjo. In high spirits, slightly apprehensive but curious nonetheless, we grabbed some water bottles, got our cameras at the ready, and headed out into the thick air of heat, pollution and chaotic traffic. Add non-stop honking to that. And horses. And cows. And scooters and rickshaws. Lots and lots of scooters and rickshaws!
Thank you for stopping by, and welcome to our India series here on Jenn and Leon Travel Blog. After 2½ years of full time travel, going to India was realizing a dream for us. We had always wanted to visit, and not only did the time arrive, but it came with our good friends and fellow Youtubers' Jackson and Marjo. If you missed the start of the series, and want to know how we got together in no less than three countries, head over to our dedicated INDIA page where you can get up to date!
In this post, we will take you through our first day exploring New Delhi! We have lots to get through, with a couple of scams (yes already!), a mini guide to Connaught Place, and a pretty fantastic afternoon, evening and night at DR ZOMBIE.
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Scammed! Is this even yours?
Almost from the moment we stepped outside onto the main street, we were marked. You will see in our YouTube video that there is a guy in a yellow top who is watching us, with whom we ended up going to Connaught Place with. But it was not as straight forward as it sounds, and we are almost certain it was not his rickshaw!
The first thing that hit us outside was the heat combined with the lack of fresh air. It is very uncomfortable at times, stuffy and sticky. We kind of all felt that pretty quickly and were hoping that we could arrange an Uber fast. But it does seem like doing this outside on the streets is not always the best idea. Not only does it draw attention, but it is already difficult because of the multitude of distractions all around, ranging from cows to scooters. With a lack of road / side-of-road traffic discipline, we really had to keep our wits about us. Things would come flying out of nowhere! Plus we were on one of the busiest junctions we had ever seen! Maybe bar Shibuya Crossing in Tokyo (unless you substitute people for rickshaws).
So with our new 'friend' seemingly prepared to do anything to get us to our destination, with all of the chaos around us going on, we all agreed to just try 'his' rickshaw. It wasn't like there weren't hundreds of them! So we went with this guy, although that meant crossing this mad intersection. Surprisingly it did not actually seem that dangerous, as it seems everyone is used to everyone just doing anything. So we actually made it across!
However, things were starting to get fishy. As it happens, the guy in the yellow top actually did not have a rickshaw. He seemed to be hunting around, eventually finding a guy on the opposite side to where we were standing originally, who he called his 'uncle'. Of course, we did not actually believe that though! Just like that, he asked us to hop in. Us four, with him also coming along. We agreed a price of 100 rupees each, 400 in total, prior to crossing the road, and it seemed he upheld this agreement as we got into the rickshaw. As much as we did not really trust what was happening, we kind of all just went along with it. It is India!
Needless to say, the price was 500 rupees for all of us when we got out. 100 more than we agreed, and we did not even get dropped off where we wanted to be. But more on that later. First, just how did we fit into that rickshaw?
Six in a auto-rickshaw
Having only ever taken a rickshaw as a twosome, oddly we did not really anticipate the issue of there being four of us. Although a simple solution would be to take two rickshaws, we did not want to be separated. So we went along with it, although we're not to sure how safe it was for Jackson up front!
While you can just about squeeze three in the back, the front seat is only designed for the driver. But as we saw throughout our time in India, it seems that this 'single' seat can often be transformed into a three seater, simply by the driver taking the center of the seat, thus creating a good 3-4 inches of space either side him! Genius! So there Jackson was, half in and out of the rickshaw, clinging on for dear life as the traffic whizzing by him seemed to get closer and closer every time. It was such a wild ride, and even though it did feel dangerous prior, once inside it was not all bad. Our guy in the yellow top was pretty talkative too, giving us the lowdown on Delhi, advice on where to g,o and showing an interest in our journey.
Rather oddly, several times he mentioned about how dangerous the area is, and to be careful filming with phones or cameras. He specifically pointed to Jackson and Marjo's, which is a more professional camera, but even called out our Insta 360 too. He said people would snatch them and run, or get offended with filming without permission (although we always try to ask anyway). Naturally this made us all very hesitant, and meant we did not record much outside. To be honest we are not sure if he was telling us the truth or not, but either way it is good to remain vigilant and careful with the equipment. So we did! (perhaps a little more on guard than we usually would be)
Scammed! Tourist office anyone?
What should have been a 15-20 minute ride to Connaught Square actually ended up taking around double that time. The traffic really is everywhere and the junctions in particular do feel very much like a roulette! We did see police officers but not many traffic police, and we would attest that this is badly needed in New Delhi!
Crammed into the rickshaw it was hard for us to keep a track of where we were going, although it did seem like we were headed in the right direction. So we chatted away, looked out at the bustling city, and just went with it.
⁜ TRAVEL TIP
Whenever using an Uber or taxi app, we always keep the app on during the ride for our safety, watching the map to ensure we are going to where we need to be. On a rickshaw, this practice is even more important, especially with known scams (such as going in the wrong direction to make more cash) are commonplace. For this, we just kept our maps open en-route, and it worked just as well.
So while we did indeed get to the area we wanted to be in, we were not actually quite in Connaught Place. We were actually dropped off at a building and told to go up some stairs to a 'tourist office'. Throughout our journey our guy had been mentioning it and how important it was that we consider going, as we can get free information and help with where to go and what to do. We had however declined (several times); we wanted to go to CP. Nevertheless did not happen, and we all found ourselves in a nice air-conditioned office, waiting to speak to a guy in a smart shirt.
We suspect our guy in the yellow shirt gets some sort of commission, or has some sort of arrangement, with this 'tourist' office. He had kept saying it was a government organization but it was not at all. We are not exactly sure what it was, although the chap we spoke to was quite helpful. He showed us a map with some hotspots, and left his details if we needed to contact him. We did not need to, as we were pretty well planned out prior to even coming to India (Thanks Jenn). But, in all fairness, he was providing a service of some sort so we appreciate that.
So we were charged extra, taken to the wrong place and left to walk the rest of the way to CP. It was actually only 6 minutes or so, so no harm done really. As we found out throughout our time in India, getting dropped off to your exact location actually is not always a given! More on that throughout the series, but for now lets tell you a bit about the famous Connaught Place.
We spend 12 days touring 5 cities in the world's most populated country using public transport, hostels and homestays. Yes, there was drama! The first post in our India Series.
Connaught Place - the shopping hub of New Delhi
Connaught Place, often referred to as CP, is one of the most iconic and popular commercial and financial centers in New Delhi, India. It is located in the heart of the city and serves as a major hub for shopping, dining, and entertainment. Connaught Place is known for its distinctive Georgian architecture, with its white colonnaded buildings an integral part of the area's charm. Designed by British architect Robert Tor Russell in the early 20th century, we had seen much of it online, and knew it was a popular spot for tourists and YouTubers. We booked our hotel with accessibility to CP in mind and we were excited to check it out.
Connaught Place is designed in the shape of two concentric circles, known as the Inner Circle and Outer Circle, with several radial roads radiating from the center. The center of the complex is a large park called Central Park, which is surrounded by the circular rows of shops, restaurants, and offices. CP is also famous for its diverse range of shops and stores. You can find clothing boutiques, bookstores, jewelry shops, electronics, and more. There is also a wide variety of restaurants, cafes, and eateries serving Indian and international cuisines.
Great architecture, but the area needs a clean up!
Our first impressions of Connaught Place was that it felt very much like familiar territory. It has architecture of the style we are both so familiar with, given its 'British' overtures. It was nice to get away from the manic main road, to somewhere a little quieter too. We had no major plans; we were thinking of heading to the central garden area, checking out an electronics store and also looking for a sim card. We achieved only one of those things!
Despite the impressive buildings and their colonnades shimmering white in the sunlight, it felt very dirty here, albeit much less busy. There were piles of rubbish in almost every corner, and the streets were caked in dirt and grime. Amongst the stifling heat occasional whiffs of garbage, urine and sewage would waft over, which was not particularly pleasant. It seemed a little odd to be in such an environment, especially given this is an area which is looking to attract business. But hey, we have to respect it right?
We were trying to search what we were looking for online, and it was tricky to say the least. As with the Storybook Hotel many establishments do list more than one spot, have shut down, or have incorrect opening times. So it was really difficult to find an Airtel store for a sim card. So we abandoned that, and decided to go to an electronics store as Jackson and Marjo wanted to check out some devices.
On our way there, we encountered some very persistent people! Be it beggars or rickshaw drivers, we were being noticed. So noticeable in fact, that for the most part we seemed to be accompanied by someone or other. Aggressive in some places, we have to say that the rickshaw drivers here were thankfully quite passive. We even walked with one chap for a while, answering some of his questions and striking up a good conversation.
What struck us the most was the amount of beggars and homelessness we saw. Especially amongst children. Almost immediately we were attracting several bedraggled kids, of whom tend to stand around and are very persistent. We do try to give what we can, and we are often conflicted with this sort of thing. We know that some of it is organised begging by adults, and that many of the kids do not see cash. Food is the best option but apart from a bottle of water, we really had nothing to give. It is hard on the heart for sure.
After all of that we made it to the electronics store, and just like outside, the moment we walked in, what seemed like all of the staff in the building made a beeline for us. It was a nice store, with plenty to look at, but at every turn there was two or three staff members on each of us, desperate to help. We took it in our stride, starting to feel like this was a very common occurrence in India. It was okay, but it was starting to get a bit much.
We did not buy anything and when we got outside, we were starting to all feel a little fatigued and overwhelmed. We had the option to go to the CP garden, but thought it would be better with some fuel first. Food and beer seemed like the common consensus! We needed to escape the smells, the heat, the horns and the interactions. It was intense! Fortunately we came across the Dr Zombie restaurant pretty quickly, and we were intrigued by what it had to offer. Before we get into that, take a look at what else is on offer at CP, and how to get there.
Other things to know about Connaught Place
⪢ Nightlife: The nightlife in Connaught Place is vibrant, with numerous bars, pubs, and clubs that stay open late into the night. It's a popular spot for those looking to unwind and enjoy the Delhi nightlife.
⪢ Business Hub: Connaught Place is also home to several corporate offices and commercial spaces, making it an essential business district in the city.
⪢ Transportation: The area is well-connected with New Delhi's transportation network. It has its own metro station, Rajiv Chowk, which is one of the busiest metro stations in the city and serves as an interchange point for multiple metro lines.
⪢ Events & Festivals: Connaught Place often hosts cultural events, festivals, and gatherings. These events can range from street markets to art exhibitions, making it a dynamic and lively place throughout the year.
⪢ Landmarks: Some of the notable landmarks in or near Connaught Place include Jantar Mantar, Palika Bazaar, and the Parliament House.
How to find Connaught Place
Getting to Connaught Place in New Delhi is relatively easy as it is a well-connected area in the heart of the city. Here are several transportation options to reach Connaught Place:
⪢ Metro: The Delhi Metro is one of the most convenient ways to get to Connaught Place. It has its own dedicated station named "Rajiv Chowk Metro Station" located right in the center of Connaught Place. You can take any metro line that intersects with the Blue Line (Line 3) to reach Rajiv Chowk Station.
⪢ Bus: Delhi Transport Corporation (DTC) buses and other public and private buses ply through Connaught Place regularly. You can check with the local bus authorities or use Google Maps to find the nearest bus stop and route.
⪢ Auto-rickshaw: Auto-rickshaws are a common mode of transportation in Delhi. You can hail an auto-rickshaw to get to Connaught Place, but make sure to negotiate the fare or ask the driver to go by the meter before starting the ride.
⪢ Taxi: You can book a taxi through ride-sharing apps like Uber or Ola or find a taxi at various taxi stands throughout the city. Alternatively, you can hire a traditional taxi from the street.
⪢ Cycle Rickshaw: In and around Connaught Place, you can find cycle rickshaws, which are a slow but eco-friendly mode of transportation for short distances.
It's worth noting that Connaught Place is located in a central area, and many landmarks, markets, and tourist attractions are within walking distance. The best mode of transportation depends on your location, convenience, and personal preferences. Using the Delhi Metro is often the fastest and most efficient way to reach Connaught Place, as it helps you avoid the city's notorious traffic jams.
Save for later: Why we DIDN'T want to stay at the Staybook Hotel in New Delhi
The water was so bad we couldn't even shower! The hotel totally different to the photos online too. Our review of this budget hotel in Delhi, our first in India.
Eight HOURS at Dr Zombie
This was definitely one of those unexpected, but very well accepted moments! In need of some escape from the intensity of the street, Dr Zombie was like an illuminated saviour amongst the chaos. The green sign pulled us in with curiosity and apprehension. What would we find in here? Hopefully a beer! And then everything else would be a bonus.
Well it turns out we hit the jackpot! Not only did we have plenty of beer, but we also stayed long enough to have our lunch, and then later dinner! We really loved this place and the food and service was really impeccable. Actually one of our best experiences in India, we all give mad props to Dr Zombie.
The restaurant has a unique theme, with zombie-themed decor throughout. Numerous signs, images and props fill the walls which are a casual blend between concrete and brick. There really is a unique atmosphere here!
The menu features a variety of Italian dishes, including pizzas, pastas, and salads. There is plenty of Indian food on the menu to choose from too. Dr Zombie also has a full bar, serving cocktails, beer, and wine.
We honestly lost track of time, we were having such a good one! It was very comfortable in here and the staff were super helpful and friendly. It was not exactly the cheapest of places, and we ended up leaving with a £165 bill! But for what we enjoyed, and how well we dined, we would say it was all worth it. And we highly recommend a visit here!
If you are interested to know more about Dr Zombie and would like to see some of the food, the live music, and a full tour of the place, hold out for our next blog post in which we give this cracking restaurant a full feature!
And with that epic eight hours (still can't believe that), this day was almost at an end. Our Uber home was fairly uneventful, and soon we were back at our not-so-good hotel for our penultimate night in New Delhi. It was late, around 11pm, and we were all looking forward to a good sleep.
It is here that we will leave the tale, but for to offer a pretty solid travel tip. If you are in an area like New Delhi, and the 24-hour honking makes it hard for you to sleep, consider downloading a fan app on your phone. A simple app (or YouTube) to play a consistent noise, like a fan or that of water, does a remarkable job at drowning out the honking. Try it - you will not regret it!
Coming up: Our full Dr Zombie review, a FAILED trip to Akshardham Temple and an unexpected trip to the INDIA GATE!
We will be taking a quick pause in our day series to bring you all of the details we haven't in this post about Dr Zombie. We are really looking forward to featuring this unique restaurant, and we hope we can support them by raising awareness and giving them an honest and detailed review. We like to do that here on Closer Lives!
Having woken up fairly weary after our Dr Zombie shenanigans, we decided to take a slow morning on Day Three. We ordered room service, edited videos and just chilled in our hotel until early afternoon. The food was decent, and with us all fully recovered we decided to head out to what looked like a very special light show at Akshardham Temple. So off we went, and after nearly 90 minutes of traffic we got there only to be refused entry. Cue the India Gate to step in and save the day!
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Our New Delhi itinerary
We are excited to be launching a brand new element to our travel blogs, after Wanderlog reached out to us to let us know of their user-friendly embeddable maps. It is so easy to use and we have mapped out all of the areas of New Delhi we visited. Tap any of the numbers for more information!
Wanderlog is a free travel planning app for iOS and Android devices that allows users to create trip itineraries, organize flights, hotel and car reservations, view places to visit on a map, and collaborate with friends. Please do let us know about this new feature in the comments below.
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Join us as we visit Connaught Place, Dr. Zombie, ride the rickshaws through the streets of Delhi, visit the Akshardham temple, Delhi Gate, KFC and check out our accommodation. We met so many incredible and friendly locals BUT we also met some pushy ones too! We explore the streets and learn more and more about India! We head to an upscale restaurant that was INCREDIBLE!
This is a great series to watch for those also planning a trip to India as we share our map and the path we took along with general prices, places to visit and transportation.
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