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Explore the haunting history and resilience of Intramuros in Manila. With almost 500 years of history, this walled city is a testament to the survival and independence of the Philippines. From Spanish colonial rule to Japanese occupation, along with near-total destruction in WW2, this city has not just survived; In the face of shocking adversity and the worst of humanity, it has thrived. We took the sombre journey to Intramuros having already known about its awful history, littered with death and destruction. While almost all of its colonial-era structures have been lost to war, few do survive, offering a fascinating insight into what once was. Intramuros has rebuilt since the war, and has maintained many of the original street names, along with plaques of what once stood in place. It is now a thriving hub of activity, from trade to tourism, and is a symbol of Philippine spirit and hope. If you really want to learn about the Philippines, this is the place to be, even if some do consider it 'dark tourism'. But more on that as you read on, along with more on the history of Intramuros and its troubled past, the must-see places, important visitor information, and as ever, our experience rating. Please note that some of the links in this post are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, we may earn a commission if you make a purchase through these links. Tap here for more information. Get one pass for multiple attractions in Intramuros with Klook ● Get access to Intramuros’ top activities with Klook's Intramuros Pass ● The pass includes general entry to your all time favourites - Fort Santiago, Baluarte de San Diego, Casa Manila Museum, Museo de Intramuros, and many more! ● The pass is valid for 30 days and gives you flexibility to pick and choose depending on when and where you would like to go! What is Intramuros? Intramuros; the name itself evokes a sense of intrigue right? Literally translating to "within walls" in Spanish, Intramuros is much more than just a district in Manila, Philippines. It's a meticulously planned and fortified historic city, standing as a testament to a bygone era. Founded in 1571 by Spanish conquistador Miguel López de Legazpi, Intramuros thrived as the political and religious centre of the Spanish colonial Philippines for centuries. ⪢ A Citadel of Spanish Colonial Power Imagine a walled city teeming with activity. Spanish galleons docked at the nearby harbor, while grand residences and imposing churches dominated the landscape. Intramuros served as the seat of the Captaincy General of the Philippines, housing the governor-general and the Real Audiencia (the high court). Fort Santiago, a formidable defensive structure, stands as a reminder of Spanish military might. Religious institutions like San Agustin Church, the oldest stone church in the Philippines, and Manila Cathedral, a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, showcase the profound influence of the Catholic Church during this period. ⪢ Beyond the Grand Structures: A Window into the Past Intramuros offers a captivating glimpse into the social fabric of Spanish Manila. Museums like Casa Manila, a restored colonial mansion, provide a fascinating look into the lifestyles and furnishings of the Spanish elite. Horse-drawn carriages, known as kalesas, add a touch of nostalgia as you traverse the cobblestone streets. The Rizal Shrine (in Fort Santiago), dedicated to Philippine national hero Jose Rizal, offers insights into the struggle for independence during the Spanish colonial period. ⪢ A City Forged Anew Intramuros bears the marks of a tumultuous past, most notably the devastation of World War II. Yet, it's a city that persistently strives forward. Today, ongoing restoration efforts meticulously preserve the historical character of the district. Modern cafes and art galleries seamlessly blend with the historical landscape, creating a vibrant cultural hub. ⪢ A Destination Not to be Missed Whether you're a history enthusiast or simply seeking a unique cultural experience, Intramuros is a must-visit destination in the Philippines. Every corner whispers stories of a bygone era, waiting to be discovered. Intramuros offers a chance to step back in time and explore a captivating chapter in Philippine history. Read more: Azure Urban Resort Residences Airbnb Review in Parañaque, Manila A luxurious and convenient living space in an ideal location to explore Manila. See the pools, beaches, food and facilities in our review. RETURN TO CONTENTS Why is it called 'Dark Tourism' Dark tourism, also sometimes referred to as thanatourism, black tourism, or grief tourism, is a travel trend that involves visiting places associated with death, tragedy, and suffering. It's not about enjoying the macabre, but rather about understanding and learning from dark chapters in human history. Dark tourism sites can be battlefields, concentration camps, genocide memorials, graveyards, prisons, or even sites of natural disasters. People are drawn to dark tourism for various reasons. Some seek to learn about history first-hand, confront the darker aspects of humanity, or pay respects to those who have suffered. While visiting places of death and disaster has been around for centuries (think of attending gladiator games in the Roman Colosseum), dark tourism as a defined concept is a relatively recent phenomenon, gaining traction in the late 20th century. Places like Auschwitz in Poland, Chernobyl in Ukraine, Hiroshima in Japan and the Catacombs of Paris (France) are all considered dark tourism sites. As is Intramuros too. Dark tourism can be a sensitive topic. Critics argue that it can be disrespectful to victims and insensitive to survivors. It's important to be respectful when visiting such sites and to learn about the history involved. We believe that these sites are an important way to educate our current generations about the mistakes of the past, but some may argue that they become more about social media sharing than about honouring the dead or education for the most part. What do you think? RETURN TO CONTENTS The history of Intramuros Intramuros, meaning "within the walls" in Spanish, is a historic district situated at the heart of Manila, Philippines. Intramuros was founded by Spanish conquistador Miguel López de Legazpi in 1571. It was built as a defensive fortress surrounded by massive stone walls and moats to protect the Spanish settlers from attacks by local indigenous groups and other foreign powers. The walls of Intramuros stood as a physical barrier between the Spanish elite and the outside world. Intramuros emerged as the political, religious, and economic nucleus of Manila during the Spanish colonial era. The district's architecture showcases a blend of Spanish colonial and Asian influences, featuring elegant facades, intricate carvings, and cobblestone streets. The district was laid out in a grid pattern, typical of Spanish colonial town planning, with the central plaza, Plaza Mayor (now known as Plaza de Roma), serving as the focal point. Key structures like the Manila Cathedral and San Agustin Church underline its role as a religious and cultural hub. Intramuros survived the seven year war between Spain and Britain in 1762 but suffered devastating destruction during World War II, facing extensive bombing by American forces after Japan had invaded and occupied the city. Much of the original architecture and structures were destroyed or damaged during this period, not just from the bombing, but also via the 'scorched earth' tactics of the retreating Japanese army. Intramuros was almost completely destroyed, and Manila was the 2nd most destroyed city of WW2, after Warsaw in Poland. Since the end of the war, and after the declaration of Philippine independence from the U.S in 1946, efforts have been made to preserve and restore what remains of Intramuros' historical heritage. Despite much of the original city being lost, Intramuros is to this day a cherished location, attracting tourists eager to delve into the Philippines' colonial history. It offers a unique glimpse into the nation's past through museums, cultural sites, and landmarks. As a living tribute to the Philippines' history, Intramuros symbolizes the country's resilience and offers a tangible connection to its struggle for freedom from foreign powers. RETURN TO CONTENTS Must-see places in Intramuros There are many important places of interest in Intramuros, but here are a few that we highly recommend you check out: ⪢ San Agustin Church The San Agustin Church is a Baroque church located in Intramuros, Manila, Philippines. It is the oldest church in the Philippines and one of the four Baroque Churches of the Philippines inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the only church that survived the near complete destruction of Intramuros in WW2. ⪢ Casa Manila Casa Manila is a museum in Intramuros, Manila, Philippines. It is a replica of a Spanish colonial house from the 19th century. The house was built in 1980 by the Cultural Center of the Philippines (CCP) and is now a museum that showcases the lifestyle of a wealthy Filipino family during the Spanish colonial period. ⪢ Manila Cathedral The Manila Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral-Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, is a historic and significant minor basilica located within the ancient walled city of Intramuros in Manila, Philippines. It has been the site of significant religious events, including papal visits, canonizations, and large-scale liturgical celebrations. ⪢ Fort Santiago Fort Santiago is a citadel located in Intramuros, Manila, Philippines. It was built by the Spanish in 1571 and served as the headquarters of the Spanish colonial government in the Philippines. The fort was also used as a prison, and it is where José Rizal, the national hero of the Philippines, was imprisoned before his execution in 1896. ⪢ Barbara's Heritage Restaurant Barbara's Heritage Restaurant is a Spanish-Filipino restaurant located in Intramuros, Manila. It is housed in a restored Spanish-era mansion, Casa Manila, and is known for its elegant interiors, traditional Filipino cuisine, and cultural performances. RETURN TO CONTENTS Intramuros entrance fee There is no entrance fee to access Intramuros itself. However, some of the attractions within Intramuros do charge entrance fees. For example, Casa Manila and Museo de Intramuros both have entrance fees. You can find a list of the entrance fees for all of the attractions in Intramuros on the official website, and we also include relevant entrance fees in all of our blog posts. RETURN TO CONTENTS Intramuros opening hours Intramuros itself, as the walled city of Manila, doesn't have specific opening hours per-se, although you will find that the pedestrian and vehicular gates are advertised to open at 5am and close at 10.30pm. The gate we entered through seemed heavily guarded, so we would assume this to be enforced, although details online are sketchy at best. Most attractions are open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 9am to 6pm. It's important to note that some museums and churches may have different schedules, and some are closed on Mondays. To be on the safe side, it's always a good idea to check the specific opening hours of the places you want to visit before you go. We include relevant opening times in all of our blog posts. RETURN TO CONTENTS How to get to Intramuros in Manila Intramuros is located in the heart of Manila, and is a central and accessible location for both locals and tourists. There are a number of different transport options you can choose from when planning your trip. ⪢ By LRT (Light Rail Transit) This is the most budget-friendly option. Take the LRT Line 1 (Green Line) and alight at Central Terminal Station. From there, it's a short walk or tricycle ride to Intramuros. ● Fare: Approximately PHP 15-30 (subject to change) ● Travel Time: Around 30 minutes depending on your starting point. ⪢ By jeepney ● Jeepneys are a colorful and iconic mode of transportation in Manila. Several jeepney routes pass by Intramuros. Look for jeepneys with signs indicating "Intramuros," "Roxas Blvd (Ermita)," or "Central Terminal." ● Fare: Minimum fare of PHP 9 (subject to change) depending on the distance travelled. ● Travel Time: Varies depending on traffic conditions. ⪢ By taxi Taxis offer a convenient and comfortable option, especially with luggage. Metered taxis are recommended. Ensure the meter is running before your trip begins. ● Fare: Varies depending on the distance and traffic conditions. Expect the base fare to be around PHP 40 and an additional charge per kilometre. ● Travel Time: The fastest option, particularly if you're coming from a far distance. Traffic congestion can significantly impact travel time though (and it can be very bad, especially in the evening). ⪢ By Kalesa (Horse-Drawn Carriage) ● Experience a touch of nostalgia with a kalesa ride. These horse-drawn carriages are readily available around Intramuros and offer a unique way to explore the historic district. ● Fare: Negotiate the fare beforehand. Expect it to be higher than other transportation options. ⪢ By tour Get access to Intramuros’ top activities with Klook's Intramuros Pass. The pass includes general entry to your all time favourites - Fort Santiago, Baluarte de San Diego, Casa Manila Museum, Museo de Intramuros, and many more. The pass is valid for 30 days and gives you flexibility to pick and choose depending on when and where you would like to go. Address: Manila, 1002 Metro Manila, Philippines Website: intramuros.gov.ph Instagram: @intramurosph Facebook: @OfficialIntramurosAdministration RETURN TO CONTENTS WATCH our Intramuros experience on YouTube Come rain or shine we made the best of the day! In this video we explore the tourist hot spots of Plaza San Luis Complex where you can find the Barbara's Heritage Restaurant, The Royal Cafe and the Casa Manila Living Museum. We also head to San Agustin Church, Manila Cathedral and Fort Santiago, all while enjoying the sights and sounds of the lively and friendly Manila that we have come to know and love in our month long stay here. If you enjoy our video and want to follow more of our adventures please do like and subscribe! Your support truly is invaluable to us and we will always strive to produce the best content we can from around the world! RETURN TO CONTENTS Save for later: Venice Grand Canal Mall, a taste of Italy in the Philippines! Experience the beauty and charm of Italy's Venice right here in Manila! A canal, iconic landmarks, and a variety of stores and restaurants! RETURN TO CONTENTS Our Intramuros experience rating ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5/5 The Intramuros of today is a far cry from where it was a decade ago, let alone after the war. Today it is a bustling hub of tourists, traders and tour guides. It is a little overwhelming as you first enter, as you will be bombarded by a plethora of people offering you transport around the place. Should you want to go your own way, you will find sidewalks hard to come by, and a lot of traffic on the roads. That being said it is nice to go at your own pace, and the main points of interest in the city are perfectly walkable. We thoroughly enjoyed checking our the San Agustin Church, Manila Cathedral and in particular, Casa Manila. At that point we were really enjoying the old buildings and the general vibe! The tough part was heading to Fort Santiago last, in particular heading down into the prison bunker, which told the story of Intramuros' dark past that literally broke us inside. It was a sobering end to the visit and one which gave our hearts to the lives lost, and the Philippine people who have endured so much terror and subjugation over the years. This is a proud nation and its fight for independence never ceased and was eventually successful, and it really endeared us even more to this incredible country. We have no doubt a visit to Intramuros will do the same for you too. How to follow our Blog There are lots of ways for you to stay up to date with Jenn and Leon Travel. If you follow us on Instagram, you can join our broadcast channel for our latest updates and posts. You will also find us on YouTube of course, or you can simply subscribe to our blog, and we will drop our latest posts straight into your email inbox. It is that easy! Your FREE interactive map of the Philippines Check out all of the places we visited in the Philippines courtesy of this interactive map from Wanderlog. Tap any of the numbers for more information including directions, our blog posts, links to reviews and much more. Wanderlog is a free travel planning app for iOS and Android devices that allows users to create trip itineraries, organize flights, hotel and car reservations, view places to visit on a map, and collaborate with friends. It is super handy and has made a big impact on our travel planning. It saves time and is super easy to use! Explore Manila with special offers from Klook Klook offers a wide variety of tours to help you experience the best of the Philippines. Whether you're looking for a sunset cruise, a local attraction or a day trip island hopping, Klook has it all. In addition to their wide selection of tours, Klook also offers great deals on transportation, accommodation, and activities. All tours are led by experienced guides who can help you learn about the history and culture of the Philippines. Klook's tours are all-inclusive too, so you don't have to worry about anything but enjoying your experience! Your GUIDE to visiting the Philippines First time in the Philippines? Check out our comprehensive guide with all you need to know including our latest posts, must-see places, and key information about health & safety, transport, local customs, internet availability and much more!

It's with a mix of emotions that we are stepping away from Etsy after two years. The platform offered a fantastic launchpad for our products, but after careful consideration and a heap of frustrations, we have decided to pursue a different path for for our store, Closer Lives Emporium. In this post, we share the many reasons behind our decision and our major concerns with the platform. Things that drove a massive 32% drop in Etsy's stock price in 2023, other sellers leaving in droves, and the tripling of Etsy's seller fees. Not to mention the hugely controversial Etsy reserve fiasco. What did we learn on Etsy, and what exciting things do we see coming next? Read on to find out! Please note that some of the links in this post are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, we may earn a commission if you make a purchase through these links. Tap here for more information. First things first, what is Etsy? Etsy is an online marketplace that caters to those who appreciate unique and handcrafted items. It's a popular destination for people looking to support independent sellers and artists from all over the world. The platform offers a wide range of products, from jewelry and clothing to home decor and art. If you're looking for something special and bespoke, Etsy is a great place to browse. Imagine Etsy as a giant online version of a craft fair. Here, you'll find a vast selection of handmade and vintage items created by independent sellers. This means you're directly supporting creative individuals who put their heart and soul into their work. So if you're looking for a one-of-a-kind piece or a gift with a personal touch, Etsy is definitely worth checking out. ⪢ Drop Shipping and Print-on-Demand In addition to handcrafted items, Etsy is also a platform that is an outlet for the masses of drop-shippers and print-on-demand companies who have exploded onto the scene in recent years. Drop-shipping and print on demand (POD) companies like Printify are fulfillment models that allow you to sell products online without holding any inventory. With drop-shipping, you partner with a supplier who stores and ships products directly to your customers after you make a sale. POD takes it a step further - you design custom products (like t-shirts or mugs) and the POD provider prints them on demand only when someone orders, handling the fulfillment for you. Both models free you up from managing stock and allow you to test out a wider range of products without upfront investment. RETURN TO CONTENTS How is Etsy performing? In Q4 2023, Etsy reached 7.9 million active sellers, with a year-over-year growth of 3.8%. One reason why selling on Etsy can be profitable is the growing number of buyers on the platform. According to Etsy, the number of active buyers went up by 3.4% to 97.3 million. This shows that Etsy is becoming a bigger market where sellers can make good money. In 2023, Etsy’s consolidated Gross Merchandise Sales (GMS) decreased slightly to $13.16 billion from $13.32 billion in 2022, with a 1.2% decrease. However, annual consolidated revenue notably increased, reaching $2.75 billion, marking a 7.1% YoY increase from $2.57 billion in 2022. Particularly noteworthy is the fourth quarter performance, where revenue marks a new record of $842.2 million, a 4.3% increase compared to Q4 2022, highlighting Etsy’s ongoing strength and resilience. In February 2024, Etsy received 474.1 million visits, according to the web traffic collected by Similarweb. This number has made Etsy the 4th player in the Marketplace and Shopping category, only after Amazon, eBay, and Walmart. Despite this 'increase', 2023 was actually not such a good year for the platform when you really drill down into the numbers. While its revenue seems to have grown, actual sales on the Etsy have stalled. On Etsy, the money from sales goes directly to the millions of sellers on the platform, not Etsy itself. Etsy makes its money by charging sellers fees for various services they use to list and sell their products. Here's the interesting part: Even though Etsy's own revenue has increased from a very aggressive seller fee strategy to counter losses, the total amount of sales on the platform (called Gross Merchandise Sales or GMS) has dipped. This means sellers are making a less money overall. This trend worried investors in 2023, and it's why Etsy took action. In December of that year, they announced they were laying off 11% of their staff to focus on initiatives that will help sellers grow their sales on the platform. Initiatives which we will look at throughout this post. Funnily enough, they do not seem to be helping one bit. RETURN TO CONTENTS Why we choose Etsy for Closer Lives Emporium Fresh into our full-time travel adventure and with an eye on not depleting our savings too much, we started looking around for some serious ways to earn on the go. Etsy was by no means our only option, as we were already teaching English online when we decided to give it a try. That being said, we liked the idea of earning money without having to do much; it kind of seemed to good to be true! We were inspired by many hours of researching YouTubers and successful entrepreneurs who were sharing their Etsy success stories. Some were demonstrating hundreds of thousands of sales on POD items, in particular tees. With plenty of creative ideas as content creators on social media, we sensed an opportunity for us too. If they could do it, why couldn't we? At the time, we were in the midst of establishing this website, which was born from Closer Lives Poetry on Instagram, a community page, which Jenn had founded. closerlives.com was actually intended to be a Creator Academy initially, to expand the concept beyond the confines of IG at the time. With very little experience in website building, establishing our POD range on Closer Lives did not seem like the best idea, given the fact it would take some time to garner domain authority, and we wanted to start earning straight away. So familiar with the brand and prowess of Etsy, it seemed like the perfect spot to build. And so, Closer Lives Emporium was born. RETURN TO CONTENTS The journey to 300 products We started creating our range in Merida, Mexico (of all places). We had a super cute Airbnb in the middle of a quiet urban sector of the city. It was a good spot to relax and get creative, and once we got started, our range just exploded! There are a few platforms you can try for POD services, the main two being printiful.com and printify.com. We set up an account with both, but opted to use Printify more as it felt a little more user friendly, and it synchronised with Etsy pretty seamlessly. For those who may not know, POD companies usually have tie ups with the big players like Etsy and Shopify, whereby products you create upload directly to the respective selling platform. Any time a product sells, the order automatically generates in the POD platform, and aside from some customer service should you so choose, the process is entirely automated from point of order to the customer receiving the goods. There are some nuances and processes you can put in place, like manually authorising orders, sending thank you emails and such, but even postal tracking is automated so you really don't have to. All this takes a little bit of work to set up and get right, but once you have it done, you can sit back, and earn money in your sleep as they say. We kind of lost track of how many items we were creating at one point, if anything we were just having fun with it. We quickly made it to over 100 products, and before we knew it, we hit over 300 across 17 categories. Woah!!! RETURN TO CONTENTS Understanding the SEO > product descriptions, alt tags, size charts etc. Mistakes spell a time-consuming disaster! One of the biggest challenges was actually marketing the products, which goes far beyond just making it and sticking it on your Etsy storefront. There are things like flat-lays, descriptions, alt tags, getting the title right, terms and conditions, refund policies, privacy policies, size charts, fulfillment times, actual delivery times etc. Say what now? We thought this was going to be easy! Such things are not exactly talked about when people share their glossy charts advertising thousands of sales. This was exactly where the time starts to become a factor. Creating a ton of designs, popping them onto a product template and pressing 'publish' is honestly the easy part. Getting these items on the virtual shelf properly is another matter entirely. Especially if you don't know what your doing, and make some critical mistakes along the way. Let's give you an example. Alt tags. Yes alt tags. You may have heard of them, and in the past year or so they have grown into the conversation so much so that you can even see them given as an option for you in your Instagram posts. An alt tag is a hidden description for an image on a webpage, helping visually impaired people understand the image. It also provides backup text if the image fails to load, but perhaps most crucially, improves search engine ranking. And search engine ranking is a biggie. Like the biggest, actually. Funnily enough, alt tags weren't actually a thing on Etsy. In fact when we started in 2021, they weren't prevalent at all. So we did not make them. Just as we did not make size chart thumbs for our items, or fulfillment information graphics. A BIG mistake we had no clue we were making. Let us tell you, when you have 300 items, and realise you need to update them all with critical things like size chart graphics, that is hours of work. Then Etsy comes along and hits you with alt tags. Then you realise you aren't making sales potentially because of these issues. Then the panic sets in when you realise on average each of your items has at least 10 photos, which means potentially 3000 alt tags. Say what now? So hopefully we are able to paint the picture now! After all of our initial hype of getting things onto Etsy, we realised our shop was always going to struggle without some serious time being put into the background. SEO-effective product titles and descriptions was not something we did prior to uploading the item from Printify. They were just generic. We had to design a whole bunch of things like our size charts and product flat-lays. Then upload those and figure out how the hell to write a good alt tag, let alone 3000 of them. Weeks and months passed before we were finally able to get these kind of things done. Let us tell you, those weeks and months are measured in actual time spent, or at least it certainly feels like it looking back. RETURN TO CONTENTS The importance of Branding So things were starting to move, and after the rough months at the beginning, we were starting to learn a lot, and were making some serious progress on getting our listings up to scratch. We could see the difference it was making too; picking up some sales here or there, and getting excited about the future prospects. Our product wall was looking better by the day, and our products themselves were looking professional and organised. One of the key elements to this was our branding, something we took great care to curate right from the off. Again we were very in-experienced with this kind of thing, and quickly found out why people pay big-bucks for logo designers and high performance graphics. Just so you know, Canva is great and all, but it is very limiting when it comes to logos. We never did end up paying big bucks, but then again the offset against changing our logo several times, and having issues with pixelation and poor quality, perhaps we should have done in hindsight. The crux of the branding comes in with all of the 'peripheral' stuff that the big drop-shippers do not tell you about. Those fulfillment charts and delivery info charts are very important. A brand is more than just a flashy logo; it is in the details, the way you market your products, the follow up emails, the terms and conditions. These things can make-or-break a business and are often sidelined in the short-term pursuit of mega bucks. Fortunately with our business experience we did particularly well in this area, but again, that dreaded time count was dding up. Yet more hours, days and weeks to get it spot on! RETURN TO CONTENTS The Etsy Ads disaster So at the point in our journey where we finally felt like our store was how we wanted it, in terms of all of the above, we were still struggling to hit consistent sales. We had got over the 20 mark, which had felt like quite a lot of work for not really that much. With all of the effort we had put in to getting the descriptions, titles and alt tags right, we were hoping for far more return than that. With our reach pretty low, and our confidence in our products pretty high, we came to the conclusion that we should invest some cash into the store. Now sure, time is money, so the months of work it had taken to get to this point should always be considered as investment, but we are talking cold hard bucks in the system. We were averaging about ten visitors a day to our store, and simple logic told us that this was never going to be enough to take off. Besides, Etsy are obsessed with pushing its advertising-to-sales potential at you, so we decided to bite. And wait for the sales to roll in. This is where our frustration with the platform really started to kick in. Now you might think that paying some money for a bigger slice of the reach pie might automatically boost your profits. But with Etsy, this is a big no no. ⪢ Etsy Ads offers two ways to promote your products to a wider audience on Etsy and beyond: ⪢ Onsite Ads: These work on a cost-per-click (CPC) basis. You set a daily budget and Etsy will display your ads in various locations throughout the Etsy platform, like search results or product pages. You only pay when someone clicks on your ad, not when they just see it. ⪢ Offsite Ads: This is a commission-based advertising program. Etsy automatically enrolls all sellers and displays your product listings on other platforms like Google, Pinterest, or Instagram. You only pay a commission (12-15% of the sale price) if someone clicks on your ad and then makes a purchase within 30 days. Funnily enough, it seemed like every ad-based sale we were making was coming from 'offsite ads'. So we were losing 12-15% every time. Not to mention the taxes on top (which we will get into later). Now the average margin on your items, especially if you want to remain competitive and soak up the delivery charge, might only be 20%. Take away Etsy ad fees, taxes, and Etsy listing fees, and yes folks, you are losing money. Sadly for us, at least 80% of our sales were barely breaking even. Before we even factored the time spent on creating the damn things. Etsy's cut was easily approaching 25-30% with offsite ads factored in, and without them, the chances of selling though onsite ads was basically zero. We quickly realised that Etsy was starting to demonstrate itself as a little bit of a scam. With the platform raking in billions, where on earth was the support for the sellers that make it? 25% ? Absolutely madness. ⪢ Was there even a good reach? In all fairness, the reach on Etsy ads did seem okay. We saw an uptick of around 100 visitors a day to our store at one point, although that cost us a cool $130 in a month before we cut it off. It just was not worth it with the offset against sales barely breaking even. A shortage of actual buyers on the platform? Or were our products just not good enough? Definitely an argument for the later, although we had sold at least one across 30% of our range. Deep down we just knew the exposure was not good enough. RETURN TO CONTENTS Etsy's direction... too concerned with updates and apps With the amount of money Etsy was charging us for listings and ads, we were wondering if there was going to be some sort of major investment in the system to boost reach or something. Yes we know that is wishful thinking, but at this point, we had put way to much work in to simply give up. We turned the ads on and then off, then on again, desperately hoping they would spur the organic reach we craved. A few sales trickled in, we lost money, and we eventually decided to keep them off. In 2022, it felt like the money was going into constant updates and tweaks. A whole new app to replace one that was not broken, a slew of changes to product features and parameters (which meant yet another 300 changes), and then one of the most frustrating of all, an enforced delivery lead-time update which led to another 300 changes. There were plenty of others besides, and we seemed to be spending far more time catering to the platform than sending out 'thank you for your custom' emails. Sales were few and far between, but the time demanded was off the charts. In the past two years (roughly April 2022 - April 2024), Etsy has implemented several changes to improve the platform for both sellers and buyers. There have been adjustments to fee structures, though as ever with Etsy the specifics are ridiculously complex. After major seller backlash campaigns in the past few years, Etsy has made efforts to improve search algorithms and introduce new features to help buyers discover unique products. This involved better filtering options or promoting (apparently) high-quality listings. There have also been updates to the offsite ads program, such as offering sellers more control over their ad placements and budgets. Honestly, it is all company bluster to keep us going and paying our fees. Sadly hardly any of it has worked. RETURN TO CONTENTS Crazy Etsy charges The crazy Etsy charges. The crazy Etsy statements. It really is one of the worst parts of the platform. Even to this day, we still cannot make sense of the chaos. Etsy provides a monthly statement, and on it is a barrage of costs that no amount of terms and conditions reading can understand! For example, we sold a pair of green sneakers and a pair of brown sneakers. 2 items, that's it, that's all. On Etsy's statement - TWENTY separate charges. Yes 20! Let's give you more of an idea: The sale of the two pairs of sneakers came to $74.08 (CAD). Charges applied by Etsy (we have added both charges together, but they are all separately placed on your statement, for each item, just to confuse you): ● Bill for click-throughs to your shop: $2.65 ● VAT on Etsy Ads: $0.53 ● Listing Fee: $0.27 ● VAT auto-renew sold: $0.10 ● Processing Fee: $3.21 ● VAT on Processing Fee: $1.28 ● Sales tax paid by buyer: $9.70 ● Transaction Fee: $9.24 ● Regulatory Operating Fee: $0.36 ● VAT on Transaction: $1.84 TOTAL: $29.18 So given that our profit margin on both the pairs of sneakers is $36, that leaves us with $6. Raising prices is not an option as we are trying to stay competitive with others in the market... given all of the work involved in launching the product, $6 is not a lot. And the more money thrown at advertising for no returns equals a loss sadly. ⪢ Oh, and the listing fees... We were aware of the listing fees prior to joining, however it is another expense that can seem to sneak up on you without you realising. Every item comes with an initial listing fee, which renews every 4 months, and also is charged on each sale. While 27 cents might not seem a lot, when you factor in 300 products, it really starts to add up and eat into the margins. RETURN TO CONTENTS Time vs effort - is it worth it? Now none of this is to say all is completely at a loss. From what we understand, for drop-shippers, Etsy is all about volume. If you can sell a thousand sneakers, that becomes $6000 profit. But the offshoot is that you simply cannot reach volume without Etsy ads, and Etsy ads are totally unsustainable and unprofitable. It is all geared towards raking in money for the platform, leaving the sellers with nothing but years of hard work with little to show for it. It really is not worth it in our opinion. Maybe a few years ago in the early days of Etsy it was, but in this day and age it is a false economy. It all feels a little like working for a public company where you bust a gut for minimum wage while the fat cats at the top flood their paychecks with millions of dollars. And you can bet they aren't working nearly as hard. Etsy works on the same principal and we decided we were no longer going to fall for it! RETURN TO CONTENTS Competition – how tough is it? The competition on Etsy can be quite tough as we have already mentioned, but it also depends on several factors: ⪢ Saturation: Certain niches on Etsy (like printed tees) are highly saturated, meaning there are many sellers offering similar products. This can make it challenging for new shops to stand out, especially for popular items like clothing or travel accessories (like ours). ⪢ Search Ranking: Etsy's search algorithm plays a big role in determining which shops appear first in search results. Understanding SEO principles and optimizing your listings with relevant keywords is crucial for getting your products seen according to Etsy, but by no means guaranteed. In our experience, the big accounts gobble up about 90%, leaving the remaining 10% feeding off of the scraps. Ok, we cannot back up those numbers, but it certainly felt like that in the 2 years we went at it. ⪢ Product Differentiation: What makes your products unique? Do you offer a special design element, use high-quality materials, or cater to a specific niche within a broader category? Standing out from the crowd is essential for attracting customers. That is what the Etsy 'experts' tell you anyway. Thumbnails are crucial, as are titles, but that takes time and money (Canva pro or flat-lay app subscriptions for example). All while eating into the little-to-no profit margins you have. ⪢ Marketing & Branding: Successful Etsy shops often invest in marketing their products beyond just the Etsy platform. This could involve social media promotion, influencer partnerships, or running targeted ads. Building a strong brand identity also helps you resonate with potential customers. Again this all costs a lot of time and money, and can be very draining. It is a hard slog, with absolutely no guarantees. Especially when you are fighting against millions of others. RETURN TO CONTENTS The infamous Etsy 'reserve' debacle The Etsy "reserve" debacle refers to a policy change implemented in 2021 that caused significant frustration among many sellers. Here's a breakdown of what happened: ⪢ The Policy: Etsy introduced a system where they could withhold a portion (usually 75%, yes 75%!) of seller's funds in a reserve account. This meant sellers wouldn't have immediate access to the full amount from their sales. ⪢ Reasons for Reserve: The purpose, according to Etsy, was to protect the platform and buyers from potential fraud. They would hold the reserve until specific criteria were met, such as the order being shipped with tracking or a certain timeframe passing (typically 45 days). ⪢ Sellers' Frustration: Several aspects of the policy caused major problems for sellers, with the lack of transparency quite shocking. Many sellers felt Etsy wasn't clear about why their funds were being placed in reserve, making it difficult to address the issue. ⪢ Cash Flow Impact: Holding a significant portion of funds could strain a seller's cash flow, especially for those who rely on Etsy income to purchase materials or cover other business expenses. ⪢ Impact on New Shops: New shops (like us at the time), which are more susceptible to being flagged for reserve due to limited sales history, could find it challenging to gain momentum if their earnings are restricted. ⪢ Aftermath: The policy received significant pushback from the seller community, with many voicing their concerns online and through petitions and boycotts. While Etsy has made adjustments to the policy since its initial implementation, the "reserve" debacle remains a point of contention for many sellers. This shambolic policy was not quite the final straw when it was first implemented, but coupled with the insane charges, constant changes to the platform, the awful ad program and terrible reach, we were really getting there. RETURN TO CONTENTS Poor store customization Another major source of frustration for us came with the lack of customization for our storefront, which honestly is pretty poor given the amount of changes Etsy loves to implement practically anywhere else but. For example, items sold always go to no 1 spot in the feed, which means if you have a layout aesthetic you are constantly re-organizing it. And the re-organisation process absolutely sucks and is very time consuming. The store banner is a nightmare, has poor rendering and is a pain to size correctly. Yu can get additional layout options but of course, you must pay monthly for the privilege. The product layouts cannot be customised and it is very difficult to showcase your brand beyond the small profile picture. These are just a few frustrations, there are plenty more plastered all over the internet. Very disappointing from Etsy given how much money it is extracting from its sellers. RETURN TO CONTENTS The turning point: time to QUIT ETSY and move on to OUR OWN PLATFORM closerlives.com So what was the straw that broke the camels back? Well in all honesty, it was our own website, THIS website, which did it. Up until mid 2023, our website had taken a bit of a back seat to Etsy, our travels, teaching English online, and YouTube. We had started it as a creator academy, abandoned that, and then started to blog a little. But with limited time and an uncertainty as to how to monetize, it just was not a priority. After experiencing a dramatic rise and surpassing monetization on YouTube while in Jakarta in 2023, we realised that our website was an opportunity we could no longer avoid. We had blogged a little up until that point, but the design and usability was poor, and it was not bringing in any cash. We were nervous about throwing time at it, as we were concerned that it would be another Etsy situation. A whole lot of work for no payout. Well, we were very happy to be proved wrong on that front! After some serious research, again that good old time, and some big blogs, we completely overhauled Closer Lives. It has been 6 months of major reconstruction and we are now seeing tangible results; increased ad revenues, over ten thousand visitors a month and even store sales. Our OWN brand, our OWN money, and a GENUINE COMMUNITY that we could never replicate on Etsy. The decision was made. Time to go it alone! RETURN TO CONTENTS The benefits of building your own site Building your own website and online store offers several advantages compared to selling on platforms like Etsy; here are but just a few reasons, and things to consider: ⪢ Greater Control & Branding: You have complete control over the design, layout, and branding of your online store. This allows you to create a unique shopping experience that reflects your brand identity and resonates with your target audience. On Etsy, your shop operates within a larger platform with a pre-determined layout and branding elements. ⪢ Lower Fees: While website building and hosting come with costs, you typically avoid the transaction fees and listing fees associated with marketplaces like Etsy. In the long run, this can lead to significant savings, especially for businesses with high sales volume. ⪢ Customer Data Ownership: When you run your own store, you collect customer data directly, allowing you to build targeted email marketing campaigns and gain valuable insights into your customer base. On Etsy, customer data belongs to the platform, limiting your marketing options. ⪢ Flexibility and Customization: With your own website, you have the freedom to customize the functionality of your online store. This could involve adding features like loyalty programs, subscription boxes, or personalized product recommendations, which might not be readily available on marketplaces. ⪢ Scalability: As your business grows, your website can easily scale to accommodate increased traffic and product offerings. Scaling on marketplaces might involve additional fees or limitations depending on the platform's structure. ⪢ Here's a caveat though: Building and maintaining your own website requires more effort and technical expertise compared to using a pre-built platform like Etsy. You'll need to consider factors like web hosting, domain name registration, website design, security measures, and ongoing maintenance. However, the long-term benefits of control, cost-efficiency, and brand ownership can be significant for businesses looking to establish a strong online presence! RETURN TO CONTENTS The future of Closer Lives Emporium - what have we learnt, and where do we go from here? This whole experience has been a massive learning curve for us, and as ever hindsight will always demonstrate the could have's, should not's and what could-have-been's. If we could go back and do it all over again, would we? To be honest, as tempting as that might be, we wouldn't. We learnt far too much through our own mistakes, and we appreciate those as much as we do our successes. We did sell on Etsy, we did make a little bit of cash and we did come out of it with almost 300 products that are still very much alive and well right here on our own site. The learning curve has been steep and challenging, but has not deterred us from making a success of Closer Lives Emporium. That being said, it has also pushed us to developing our own site as a whole, which in turn led to us pursuing one of our biggest passions - writing and blogging! Would that have still been a reality if we were pushing our Etsy store? I guess we will never know, But one thing is for sure, we are having the time of our lives developing this blog, and happiness genuinely is the key to success. The energy this blog continues to give us is the cornerstone of Closer Lives. That all being said, our store is very much operational on here to and you are welcome to take a look! We hope this post has helped you in some way, and if you have any questions and want to pick our brains at all, feel free to get in touch! Drop a comment or pop us an email; we are always on hand and our advice is free. Helping and making a difference: that to us is a far better use of our time! ⪢ How to follow our Blog There are lots of ways for you to stay up to date with Jenn and Leon Travel. If you follow us on Instagram, you can join our broadcast channel for our latest updates and posts. You will also find us on YouTube of course, or you can simply subscribe to our blog, and we will drop our latest posts straight into your email inbox. It is that easy!

Skanderbeg Square, a vibrant hub pulsating with life, is a major cultural hub in Tirana, Albania's dynamic capital city. More than just a standard central plaza, it's woven with layers of history, architectural styles, and cultural significance. Here, the echoes of a defiant national hero mingle with the buzz of modern life. Whether you're a history buff seeking remnants of bygone eras, a budget traveler navigating the city, or simply someone curious to explore the soul of Tirana, Skanderbeg Square has something unique to offer. It is definitely a must-see spot in Tirana, for its national importance alone. In this post, we look into the fascinating history of not just this square but its namesake Commander Skanderbeg himself, and the enduring impact and legacy he left on the Land of Eagles. We'll also tell you more about the Albanian history involving Ottoman rule and Italian invasion, and show you how to get here from within Tirana. Please note that some of the links in this post are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, we may earn a commission if you make a purchase through these links. Tap here for more information. Get 10% off on your first booking on the Klook app PROMO CODE: APP10TW Skanderbeg: Albanian National Hero and Thorn in the Ottoman Side Skanderbeg, also known as Gjergj Kastrioti (c. 1405 – 1468), was a pivotal figure in Albanian history. He rose to prominence as a military leader who defied the powerful Ottoman Empire and became a symbol of Albanian resistance. ⪢ Early Life and Ottoman Service Born into a noble Albanian family, Skanderbeg's early life was intertwined with the political realities of the region. The Ottomans were expanding their influence, and his father, Gjon Kastrioti, sent some of his sons, including Skanderbeg, as hostages to the Ottoman court. This was a common practice intended to secure loyalty. Skanderbeg received an Ottoman education, converted to Islam (though some sources suggest he secretly remained Christian), and rose through the ranks of the Ottoman military. He even received the name Skanderbeg, a combination of "Alexander" (referencing Alexander the Great) and "Bey" (a title of nobility). ⪢ Rebellion and Leadership In 1443, a pivotal moment arrived. During a battle in Serbia, Skanderbeg saw an opportunity and defected from the Ottoman army. He renounced Islam, reclaimed his family's Christian faith, and rallied other Albanian nobles to his cause. In 1444, he formed the League of Lezhë, uniting Albanian principalities against Ottoman rule. Skanderbeg's military genius became legendary. He employed guerilla warfare tactics, utilizing Albania's mountainous terrain to his advantage. His small, agile force inflicted numerous defeats on much larger Ottoman armies. Famous victories like the Siege of Krujë in 1450 solidified his reputation as a formidable opponent. ⪢ Legacy and Symbolism Skanderbeg's resistance against the Ottomans lasted for over two decades. While he never fully expelled them from Albania, he significantly hampered their expansion and inspired generations of Albanians. He became a symbol of national identity and pride, a role he continues to hold today. Keep reading to find out more about the Ottomans in Albania, how all of this led to Skanderbeg Square being constructed, how to get there within Tirana, and as ever, our experience rating. Save for later: How to take the bus from Tirana, Albania across the border to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia We show you how to cross this land border, useful travel tips, how to find Tirana Bus Station (it is not that easy) and bus ticket info! RETURN TO CONTENTS The Ottomans and Albania: A Story of Conquest, Resistance, and Coexistence The Ottoman Empire and Albania shared a long and intricate history. Their relationship went through phases of conquest, fierce resistance, and even periods of co-existence. ⪢ Ottoman Arrival and a Divided Albania (14th-15th Centuries) The Ottomans first arrived in Albania in the late 14th century. They capitalized on existing rivalries among Albanian nobility, who were divided in their response. Some Albanian rulers became vassals of the Ottomans, while others fiercely resisted their encroachment. By the 1420s, the Ottomans had established a strong foothold in southern Albania and gradually expanded control northward. ⪢ Skanderbeg's Uprising and a thorn in the Ottoman Side (1443-1468) Skanderbeg's rebellion in 1443 marked a turning point. He switched sides, defecting from the Ottomans and uniting Albanian principalities under the League of Lezhë. Skanderbeg's military genius and effective guerrilla tactics frustrated Ottoman ambitions for over two decades. He repeatedly defeated larger Ottoman armies, preventing them from fully consolidating power in Albania. Skanderbeg's legacy as a national hero and symbol of resistance continues to inspire Albanians to this day. ⪢ Ottoman Rule and a Lasting Impact (15th-Early 20th Centuries) The Ottomans eventually subdued Albania after Skanderbeg's death. Ottoman rule significantly impacted Albania. Islam spread, but many Albanians clung to their Christian faith. The Ottomans implemented the Timar system, a land-grant system tied to military service, which affected Albanian social structures. Interestingly, local Albanian elites often held positions within the Ottoman administration, demonstrating a degree of co-existence within the empire. ⪢ The Rise of Albanian Nationalism and a Breakaway (19th-Early 20th Centuries) Despite Ottoman control, Albanian cultural identity and a sense of national consciousness persisted. The 19th century witnessed the rise of Albanian nationalism, fueled by factors like religious discrimination and a yearning for self-determination. Revolts against Ottoman rule became more frequent, culminating in Albania's declaration of independence in 1912. Dedë Gjon Luli Dedvukaj, also known as Ded Gjo Luli or Deda, was a prominent Albanian figure (1840-1915), particularly recognized for leading the 1911 uprising against Ottoman forces in the region of Malësia e Madhe (Greater Malësia). He is also immortalized at Skanderbeg Square, almost at the entrance to the plaza. Save for later: Archaeological Museum of Durrës, Albania, plus Galan Trio performance! A wonderful evening enjoying the beautiful piano & violin sounds of Galan Trio, performing amongst the incredible artefacts of Durrës Museum. RETURN TO CONTENTS Skanderbeg Square: A Stage for Albania's Evolving Identity Skanderbeg Square, known as Sheshi Skënderbej in Albanian, is the beating heart of Tirana, Albania's capital city. It's not just a central plaza; it's a physical manifestation of the country's complex history, reflecting different eras and architectural styles. Here's a look at its fascinating past: ⪢ Early Beginnings (19th-Early 20th Centuries) The square's history isn't as old as Tirana itself. In the 19th century, the area was largely undeveloped, with an Austrian-built public square emerging around 1917. Following Tirana becoming Albania's capital in 1920, city planning initiatives aimed to transform the space. ⪢ Italian Fascist Influence (1920s-1930s) During the reign of King Zog I of Albania (1928-1939), the square was envisioned as a roundabout with a central fountain. However, with the Italian invasion of Albania in 1939, the plans changed dramatically. Italian architects, influenced by the Neo-Renaissance style, designed a more elaborate layout with a circular shape and symmetrical buildings. This reflected the fascist ideals of order and grandeur. ⪢ Skanderbeg Takes Center Stage (1939-Present) The square received its name, Skanderbeg Square, in 1937, honoring Albania's national hero, Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg. Interestingly, even the communist regime, not known for its admiration of nobility, retained the name. This highlights Skanderbeg's enduring significance as a symbol of Albanian resistance and national identity. ⪢ Post-War Transformations (Mid-20th Century to Present) Following World War II and the communist takeover, the square underwent further changes. The Old Bazaar, a historic marketplace, was demolished to make way for the Palace of Culture, a Soviet-style building housing the National Theater of Opera and Ballet and the National Library. This reflected the ideological shift towards communist ideals. In recent years, Skanderbeg Square has seen a renewed focus on pedestrian access. Car traffic has been restricted, and the central area has been transformed into a more open space for gatherings and events. In the summer months, water features add a refreshing touch. ⪢ Skanderbeg Square Today Today, Skanderbeg Square stands as a testament to Albania's evolving identity. It's a place where remnants of fascist-era architecture coexist with communist-era buildings, all overlooking a monument to a national hero who defied foreign domination. The square serves as a vibrant hub, a stage for celebrations, protests, and everyday life, reflecting the dynamic spirit of modern Albania. RETURN TO CONTENTS What there is to do at Skanderbeg Square, and things to know before you go The square itself is a sight to behold, with its grand architecture and the equestrian statue of Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg, Albania's national hero, dominating the center. The square is also a popular spot for locals and tourists to relax. There are benches scattered around, perfect for people-watching or reading a book. Free Wi-Fi is also available in the square, so you can stay connected. ⪢ Exploring nearby attractions ● The Et'hem Bey Mosque, a beautiful Ottoman-era mosque with frescoes depicting religious scenes (not typical of mosques). ● The National Historical Museum, which houses a collection of artifacts from Albania's long history. Note: As of April 2024, the museum is closed for renovations, so be sure to check before you go. ● The National Theatre of Opera and Ballet, a beautiful Art Deco building that is home to Albania's premier performing arts companies. ● The National Library, which houses a collection of books, newspapers, and other materials related to Albanian culture and history. ⪢ Other things to know ● Grabbing a bite to eat: There are many cafes, restaurants, and bars located around the square, offering everything from traditional Albanian cuisine to international fare. ● Shopping: There are a few souvenir shops located near the square, where you can pick up some Albanian mementos. ● People-watching: Albanians are known for their hospitality, and Skanderbeg Square is a great place to people-watch and get a feel for the local culture. ● Attending events: The square often hosts events such as concerts, festivals, and protests. If you're lucky, you might catch something interesting happening during your visit. ● The square is pedestrian-only, so you won't have to worry about traffic. ● The square is well-lit at night, so it's safe to walk around even after dark. It is open to the public 24 hours. ● There are a few ATMs located near the square, in case you need to withdraw some cash. Albanian Lek is the local currency. While some places may accept Euros, it's best to have some Lek on hand for smaller purchases. RETURN TO CONTENTS How to get to Skanderbeg Square (from within Tirana) If you're already within Tirana, getting to Skanderbeg Square is fairly easy. The most convenient way would depend on your preference and budget: ⪢ Walking This is the most economical option, and a great way to see the city at your own pace. Since Skanderbeg Square is centrally located, it's easily accessible on foot from most parts of Tirana. Expect a leisurely walk of 10-20 minutes depending on your starting point. ⪢ Bus Tirana's public bus system is a convenient and affordable option. Several bus lines run near Skanderbeg Square, including L11, L15, L2, L7, and L9. A single ticket costs around 30 Lek (around $0.25 USD). You can check Moovit app or website for real-time schedules and routes. ⪢ Taxi Taxis are readily available throughout Tirana and can be a convenient option, especially if you have luggage or limited mobility. Fares are metered, so agree on the price before you get in. Expect to pay around 500-700 Lek (around $4-6 USD) for a ride from within central Tirana. RETURN TO CONTENTS Bunk'Art 2: Just a short walk from Skanderbeg Square In 2015 this secret state nuclear communist era bunker was unveiled to the public after being shrouded in secrecy for nearly 40 years. Built as part of an astonishing network of 700,000 such tunnels and bunkers across Albania, now repurposed as a museum, here you will meet the horrors of a brutal paranoid dictatorship led by the notorious Enver Hoxha. Bunk'Art 2 is a symbol of a dark past, yet one that now signifies a new era for this proud Balkan state. RETURN TO CONTENTS Our Skanderbeg Square experience rating ⭐⭐⭐ 3/5 Skanderbeg Square is certainly a place we would recommend you visit in Tirana, if you are looking to learn and understanf more of the history and culture here. The main square is absolutely huge, and initially aside from the statue there does not seem to be a great deal going on. Skanderbeg Square will not blow your socks off, but if you take the time to look outside of the main sea of floor tiles in its centre, there is actually quite a lot to see. Park walks, the museums, a carousel and plenty of cool architecture are all on offer. Not to mention Bunk Art 2 nearby. We do think that perhaps the city could do a better job of giving information to tourists, especially around the Skanderbeg Monument. The National History Museum has also been closed for an age, and that was also a little bit of a disappointment for us. All that being said, this square is not so much about sightseeing anyway. It is about a national hero who will forever live on in Albanian hearts, and one that we will not forget after visiting here either! RETURN TO CONTENTS How to follow our Blog There are lots of ways for you to stay up to date with Jenn and Leon Travel. If you follow us on Instagram, you can join our broadcast channel for our latest updates and posts. You will also find us on YouTube of course, or you can simply subscribe to our blog, and we will drop our latest posts straight into your email inbox. It is that easy! RETURN TO CONTENTS Our First Impressions of Tirana, Albania on YouTube In this travel vlog, we'll show you our first impressions of Tirana. We'll walk around the city, explore its historic buildings, and taste delicious local food. This video will also be helpful if you have only a day to visit! Get a feel of what to expect when you visit Albania's capital. If you enjoy our video and want to follow more of our adventures please do like and subscribe! Your support truly is invaluable to us and we will always strive to produce the best content we can from around the world! e you in Tirana! RETURN TO CONTENTS Your FREE interactive map of Albania Check out all of the places we visited in Albania courtesy of this interactive map from Wanderlog. Tap any of the numbers for more information including directions, our blog posts, links to reviews and much more. Wanderlog is a free travel planning app for iOS and Android devices that allows users to create trip itineraries, organize flights, hotel and car reservations, view places to visit on a map, and collaborate with friends. It is super handy and has made a big impact on our travel planning. It saves time and is super easy to use! Your GUIDE to visiting Albania First time in Albania? Check out our comprehensive guide with all you need to know including our latest posts, must-see places, and key information about health & safety, transport, local customs, connectivity, visa information, useful links and much more!

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Introduction Travel Blog Socials YouTube Subscribe Emporium Poetry & Life Affiliate Offers Discover your next travel destination, plan the perfect trip, find inspirational gifts or immerse yourself in our poetry and prose! At Closer Lives, we are passionate about living life to the fullest. Through our online store and travel blog we aim to bring you closer to the world around you. We believe that life should be lived with a sense of adventure; we are passionate about inspiring people to explore the world, discover new cultures and get out of their comfort zone. ​ We also share on YouTube and Instagram for inspiring visuals alongside thought-provoking poetry, another big passion of ours. Be it planning a trip, hunting for a cool gift, or simply just looking for inspiration, we believe Closer Lives will have something for you! Jenn & Leon Travel Blog Destinations Welcome to our travel experience & guide blog, where we share our experiences from our full-time travels around the world. We have already explored 40 countries and our vision is to reach 100! We want to help you plan your vacation, or long term travel plans, and see the best destinations. Or simply just enjoy the journey with us! We include facts, things to do, food & cuisine and even accommodation recommendations. Our goal is to make Jenn & Leon Travel Blog a one-stop place for all you need to know about where you want to go! Hair Want to Feel like a Rebel? 5 Reasons to grow out Your Grey Hair Unleash Your Inner Rebel: 5 Reasons to Embrace Your Grey Hair! Discover authentic self-expression and authenticity 96 views Philippines Venice Grand Canal Mall, a taste of Italy in the Philippines! Experience the beauty and charm of Italy's Venice right here in Manila! A canal, iconic landmarks, and a variety of stores and restaurants! 4,015 views Thailand Burning Season in Chiang Mai: All you need to know Many people are unaware of Smoky season here in Thailand. We were too! We look at why this happens and how you can protect yourself from it. 7,146 views Social Media My Instagram Account was disabled: Here is how I got it back and how you can too! Has your account been disabled? This guide will tell you why, the do's & don'ts, contacting Meta, and how I recovered my account. 17,512 views Get Your Guides Find us on social media Join Jenn & Leon Travel on YouTube We love getting to know communities and locals around the world through travel and tourism. Join us as we explore culture, cuisine, accommodation, landmarks and attractions with both budget and bougie options on YouTube! We are 2 writers, bloggers and photographers who first connected on Instagram through our poetry. We met for the first time in Australia for a Royal Caribbean cruise, going on to visit 14 countries in 2019. After spending 2020 in Canada we left it all behind in April 2021, selling up and heading for Mexico. Our YouTube channel launched in August 2021! As entrepreneurs and full-time slow travellers our goal is to see as much of this beautiful planet as we can! We love getting to know communities and locals around the world and through our channel we want to help and support them by sharing their culture with our viewers. By subscribing to our channel you will get notified of our latest videos as and when they land, so you will never miss out. With new videos every week, we are super excited to share our adventures from traveling in Asia throughout the entirety of 2023. Join over 10k on YouTube Get our latest posts straight to your inbox. No spam, opt out anytime We plan to see, learn, love and share as much of the world with others as possible. That is why we created Closer Lives, to create a community for like-minded individuals and to help bring the world a little closer together through poetry, history, storytelling, healing, art, purpose and community. If you'd like to join us please subscribe; our social part is still being developed but currently you are able to post, share and interact. You will also be notified of our latest blog posts, videos and receive our monthly Newsletter! We'd love to have you here with us! PLUS when you sign up you will receive a welcome bonus of 20% off ANYTHING on our site! Drop your email here Closer Lives Emporium We launched our store in 2021 and have since grown our range to over 300 products across 16 categories. Our travel gear includes designer suitcases, back packs and matching swimwear and stylish weekender bags! We also have a fantastic range of inspirational tees, stylish hoodies, stationary, homeware, phone cases and more - all exclusively designed by us. Plus we can deliver worldwide! SEE OUR FULL RANGE Poetry & Lifestyle We are both published authors and poets and as you may have already seen, met on Instagram via a live poetry reading! We are passionate about our words and our community and have worked on numerous projects including building a large Instagram community poetry page, which has manifested into the Closer Lives website you see here today! ​ We write about a range of topics but predominantly focus on love, heartbreak, spirituality, positivity and general life. Our aim is to inspire all of our readers and continue to share the power of the written word. Poetry & Prose A little gift for you from us Want to save some cash? Or make some? Check out these deals and discounts from places we have used, worked with and trust! 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Introduction Photo Gallery Discover Interesting Facts Latest Posts Things to Know YouTube Our Story Other Countries About Closer Lives Your guide to visiting Mexico: the Land of Mariachi Mexico is a beautiful and diverse country with something to offer everyone. From the ancient ruins of Palenque to the stunning beaches of Tulum and Cancun, there's no shortage of things to see and do in Mexico. We spent six months living here, traveling to ten different cities using public transport options and month-stay Airbnb's. This travel blog page will provide you with all the information you need to plan your perfect trip, including travel tips, destinations, and more! Plus check out our specially curated YouTube videos for even more stunning visuals and information from this incredible country! Jump to where you want to go: Discover Interesting Facts Latest Posts Things to know YouTube Tap any photo for more information Discover Our top recommended places Cancun Cozumel Isla Mujeres Palenque Playa del Carmen San Cristobal Interactive Map Our interactive map & guide to Mexico Check out all of the places we visited in Mexico courtesy of this interactive map from Wanderlog. Tap any of the numbers for more information including directions, our blog posts, links to reviews and much more. Wanderlog is a free travel planning app that allows users to create trip itineraries, organize flights, hotel and car reservations, view places to visit on a map, and collaborate with friends. It is super handy and has made a big impact on our travel planning. It saves time and is super easy to use! Interesting Facts Here are 13 interesting facts about Mexico. Some may just surprise you! ​ 1. Mexico is the 11th most populous country in the world, with over 126 million people. 2. The capital city of Mexico is Mexico City, which is one of the largest cities in the world by population, at over 22 million. In 2015 it was just 8.3 million! 4. Mexico is the birthplace of chocolate. The ancient Mayans and Aztecs were the first to cultivate cacao beans and create a bitter beverage from them. 5. The Chichen Itza archaeological site in Mexico is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. It is a remarkable example of the Mayan civilization's architectural and cultural achievements. 6. Mexico has the world's largest population of Spanish speakers, with Spanish being the official language of the country. 7. The Mexican cuisine is recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. It includes dishes like tacos, tamales, enchiladas, and guacamole. 8. Mexico is home to several unique and diverse ecosystems, including deserts, tropical rainforests, and coral reefs. It is one of the world's most biologically diverse countries. 9. Mexico is famous for its vibrant and colorful festivals. One of the most well-known is Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), a celebration honoring deceased loved ones. 10. Mexico has a rich artistic heritage. The famous Mexican painter Frida Kahlo and muralist Diego Rivera are internationally renowned for their contributions to the art world. 11. Mexico is the leading producer of silver in the world. The country has a long history of silver mining, and the city of Taxco is known for its silver jewelry craftsmanship. 12. The Mariachi music, characterized by its lively rhythms and traditional attire, originated in Mexico and is recognized as an important part of the country's cultural identity. 13. Mexico is known for its impressive natural landmarks, such as the Copper Canyon (Barranca del Cobre), which is deeper and longer than the Grand Canyon in the United States. Latest Posts Jenn & Leon Travel 18 min Forget Cancun; Why this little-known highland town is a MUST SEE in Mexico Welcome to San Cristobal - a vibrant town with rich history, indigenous culture, and colonial charm. Explore Mexico beyond touristy Cancun! Jenn & Leon Travel 6 min Palenque Maya Ruins, all you need to know about this amazing location A must see location, Palenque is considered to be as impressive as Chichen Itza and this is our guide to this exceptional Mayan site. Jenn & Leon Travel 7 min Isla de Pasion: The Secluded Island Paradise Off the Coast of Cozumel, Mexico Ever dreamed of having an island all to yourself? You can get close to it with our guide to the amazing Passion Island in Mexico! Jenn & Leon Travel 3 min Vote for Your Favorite Mexican Street Art from our top ten picks! Vote on your favorite in our poll! We need your help deciding the best from our exceptional Mexico top ten street art picks! Jenn & Leon Travel 7 min 5 Things You Can't Miss on Isla Mujeres, Mexico Amazing beaches, incredible sunsets, wonderful hospitality & gorgeous cuisine awaits you on the spectacular island of Isla Mujeres, Mexico! Jenn & Leon Travel 6 min Tora Restaurant: A Review of One of Cancun's Best Japanese Restaurants What an amazing sunset and evening spent in the best restaurant in all of Cancun, Mexico in our opinion! 5 star fine dining at its best! 1 2 Things to know when visiting Mexico Tap any tab for more information Connectivity Cuisine Culture & Customs Currency Health & Safety Information Language Places to Visit Transportation Visa Requirements Weather & Climate Information POPULATION 126.7 million CAPITAL Mexico City (22.3 million) CURRENCY Mexican Peso (MXN) DRIVING Right Side TIME ZONE CST (GMT-6) MEASUREMENTS Standard Metric Discover more on YouTube Mexico 6 Months Exploring the Country as... Play Video Play Video 14:07 Isla Mujeres MEXICO Playa Norte Mexico (What to SEE & do, budget & bougie) 2 ways to Explore We are exploring the beautiful island of Isla Mujeres, Mexico (the Island of Women) We are sharing our Airbnb, Hotel, golf carts, beach clubs and epic sunsets on this Island of turquoise water and sprawling sandy beaches off of the coast of Cancun, Quintana Roo, Mexico. MEXICO TRAVEL VLOG 2023 This video will help you to budget and plan what it will cost to visit the island with a variety of different options for you to choose from. #islamujeres #mexico #golfcart We arrived by Ultramar Ferry from Cancun and started our time off exploring a few restaurants, a beach club and our Airbnb with a focus mostly on the north end of the Island. With a visit to Jax restaurant, The Green Demon beach bar and La Cazuela M&J. We've formatted the video into two parts. The second portion of the video we are exploring the south end with a stay at the Casa de Los Suenos Boutique Hotel and the beach club restaurant Kin Ha. We tour the island on a golf cart and visit the mayan Ruins of Ixchel at the southernmost tip of the Island an absolutely beautiful must see location also widely known as Iguana point. One showing the more budget option to explore this island with part two being a higher budget away to explore the island. We've gone with the concept of THIS or THAT. At the end of the video let us know which way is your preferred day of travel....this way or that way!? Airbnb link: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/45220293?source_impression_id=p3_1636542928_Hbq2IdUNDEA7ZYVR&guests=1&adults=1 CHAPTERS 00:00 ISLA MUJERES INTRO 00:28 ULTRAMAR FERRY CANCUN TO ISLA MUJERES 01:20 JAX ISLA MUJERES 02:00 CHURROS ISLA MUJERES 02:47 GREEN DEMON BEACH BAR ISLA MUJERES 04:33 BUDGET AIRBNB TOUR ISLA MUJERES 06:13 GOLF CART ISLA MUJERES TOURING THE ISLAND 07:17 PUNTA SUR ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE ISLA MUJERES 09:41 CASA SUENOS BOUTIQUE HOTEL ISLA MUJERES 10:14 KINHA RESTAURANT ISLA MUJERES 12:35 CASA SUENOS ISLA MUJERES ROOM TOUR Next up we are sharing our amazing night out at an EPIC 5 star restaurant in Cancun....can you guess where? You don't want to miss this video! We hope that this video helps you to get an idea of some of the costs, some places you can visit yourself and to join in our travel journeys exploring the world as slow travelling entrepreneurs, writers and digital nomads. Join us on the journey! Don't forget to Subscribe! Play Video Play Video 11:47 The Westin COZUMEL; Budget & Bougie with Beach Restaurants, Things to Do and more MEXICO TRAVEL VLOG We are in COZUMEL Mexico exploring this major cruise port location off the Caribbean Sea. All while showing you our all inclusive stay at the Westin Cozumel with a luxurious massage and epic views. You don't want to miss this LUXURY stay! We also explore a more budget friendly way to spend time on the island of COZUMEL and show you the hidden secret of PASSION ISLAND! We also stay locally at an Airbnb with amazing things included. We explore the island on ATV, go to restaurant, see beautiful sunsets and beaches and we also explore a local ruins. Beaches, Snorkelling & Things to do in COZUMEL MEXICO (also known as Cruise Port Island) and PASSION ISLAND are included in this travel video. #Cozumel #CozumelMexico #Mexico CHAPTERS 00:01 Intro 00:47 THE WESTIN COZUMEL 01:22 THE WESTIN COZUMEL exploring the rooftop bar and pool 02:01 THE WESTIN COZUMEL cuisine and fine dining 02:27 THE WESTIN COZUMEL our full ROOM TOUR 04:00 THE WESTIN COZUMEL ZAZIL SPA MARRIOTT a LUXURY day at the SPA 04:58 COZUMEL ON A BUDGET our AIRBNB TOUR 06:51 PLAYA CORONA COZUMEL beautiful local beach 07:35 BAKKAN COZUMEL go and explore 08:47 COZUMEL RUINS so many to see but it's HOT 10:00 PASSION ISLAND the secret spot can you find it? Join us on the journey! Don't forget to Subscribe! Play Video Play Video 12:18 Puerto Morelos; BEACH Restaurants, CENOTES, NIGHTLIFE & Airbnb, Budget & Bougie (Mexico Travel Vlog) In this video we are exploring Puerto Morelos, Mexico one of our favourite spots in all of the places we visited in Mexico especially in Quintana Roo In this video we are exploring the beach and restaurants and the general area. We also travel to our first more local vibe cenote. We highly recommend a visit to this smaller fishing village that is less touristy than many other towns in the area. It's not ot far from Cancun you can travel by taxi or bus and it's a great stop for a few days on the way to Playa del Carmen (as we did) or you can definitely plan for an extended stay in this lovely area as we intend to do next visit! We highly recommend the restaurant Mar Bella right on the water for some amazing seafood and amazing desserts. You should definitely add this destination to your Yucatan Peninsula tour of the Caribbean If you plan your timing right there are turtle releases on the coastal beaches here! Something we didn't get to experience but we will definitely return for! The area is also quite popular for diving, another thing we didn't get the chance to try. CHAPTERS 00:00 Visiting PUERTO MORELOS in QUINTANA ROO 00:20 CASA MALIX our PUERTO MORELOS AIRBNB and room tour 01:24 walking along PUERTO MORELOS BEACH 01:43 MAR BELLA epic seafood restaurant in PUERTO MORELOS 05:26 LA NORIA CENOTE a local spot in PUERTO MORELOS 9:07 PUERTO MORELOS exploring the BEACH FRONT and DOCK 11:13 PUERTO MORELOS OUTRO #puertomorelos #mexico #travelmexico Play Video Play Video 15:33 MERIDA, Mexico Cost of Living for ONE MONTH; Things to Do; Mexico TRAVEL VLOG Merida, Mexico what an epic experience! We share our month of living in this culturally rich community. Merida is a city in Mexico located in the Yucatan Peninsula. We spent time in our Airbnb, explored a hotel, stayed in a mansion, visited a book store and took a pottery lesson through Airbnb experiences. We enjoyed some amazing food as always and played in the rain. Join us in this Mexico Travel vlog to learn more about this city. After spending 6 months in Mexico and travelling around the beautiful country we'd like to feel that we have a really good understanding of the culture, areas and people. Be sure to follow along in our Mexico Travel Series to check out other videos of different areas of the this beautiful country if you are considering doing the same. This video will help you get a feel for the city whether you are considering living there, having a long stay visit or even to help you anticipate moving there! Thanks for watching! CHAPTERS 00:00 Intro MERIDA 00:40 Settling in MERIDA 03:07 CUNA MERIDA 04:52 Mansion MERIDA 09:19 Pottery & Book Store MERIDA 11:38 Leon's Birthday 12:26 Hotel HACIENDA INN Aeropuerto MERIDA 12:56 Room Tour 14:14 Downsizing 14:44 Outro #merida #mexico #travelvlog Join us on the journey! Don't forget to Subscribe! Play Video Play Video 15:47 CANCUN AirBnB and The Cost of Living and general things to know MEXICO TRAVEL VLOG Cancun, Mexico in this video you will see our Airbnb cost for our first month, general cost of things and us getting used to the way things work in Cancun Mexico. #CancunMexico #Cancuncostofliving #mexico Everything you see in this video is within a 15 minute walk of the Air BnB We show you the surrounding a hospital, shopping centre and tons of restaurants, convenience stores, cafes, pharmacies, movies theatre etc. Our AirbnB was in a gated community with 24 hour front gate security. The grounds included a lovely walking path, two outdoor swimming pools, playpark for children, enclosed dog park, a gathering area, outdoor BBQ area, soccer field, outdoor ping pong table along with an outdoor gym. The unit included private washer and dryer, 2 full bathrooms and bedrooms with ample storage and everything you need. High speed internet was included as well. There were limited starter supplies in the kitchen however (no salt, sugar, oil etc) Water and electricity (for long stays) are extra however it was extremely reasonable for the month. The hotel zone was a 10 minute Uber ride away (more on that adventure next video). We loved the location and accommodation. We would definitely return in the future! Airbnb link: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/44332431?source_impression_id=p3_1630689497_gRvolYgcNr6%2BKWxr&guests=1&adults=1 Join us on the journey! Don't forget to Subscribe! BUSINESS EMAIL - closerlives@gmail.com BUSINESS WEBSITE CloserLives - https://www.closerlives.com ETSY SHOP CloserLivesEmporium -https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/CloserLivesEmporium?ref=seller-platform-mcnav JENN INSTA - https://www.instagram.com/writings_of_an_ex_mrs/ LEON INSTA - https://www.instagram.com/leon.gregori213/ JENN FB - https://www.facebook.com/writingsofamrsjennifer/ LEON FB - https://www.facebook.com/leon.gregori213 JENN'S BLOGS - https://writingsofamrs.wordpress.com https://writingsofamrsmommy.wordpress.com Play Video Play Video 04:00 TORA; Cancun, Mexico's MUST VISIT Restaurant in 2024 We are dining and reviewing TORA the 5 Star Seafood Fine Dining Live Entertainment, Shows, Sparkler Fountains, Fireworks, Fancy Fun spot in Cancun Mexico. MEXICO TRAVEL VLOG What an amazing sunset and evening spent in the best restaurant in all of Cancun, Mexico in our opinions! With amazing sushi, lobster, fish and seafood risotto we were given first class treatment during this epic night out. The drum bongo and dancing show was so fun along with the fountain sparklers who doesn't love a good sparkler! It always sets the mood. We enjoyed hookah, tequila, wine and brandy nut don't worry the evening was spread out over 8 hours for us ha! Finishing the evening off with fireworks and dancing all while enjoying the beautiful view. The management and staff are highly attentive and very entertaining. They took very good care of us. Sorry I forgot the film the ladies washroom but there are full length mirrors, glasses of champagne and all of the extra bells and whistles. You can obviously spend less than we did to enjoy some time here as the entertainment is included regardless of what you decide to order. If you are celebrating anything special while in Cancun Mexico this is the place to do it....but don't forget to make a reservation! We can't wait to go back again! #travel #cancun #mexico #food Let us know if you would enjoy spending an evening in this epic restaurant! Join us on the journey! Don't forget to Subscribe! BUSINESS CONTACT INFO Work with Us! BUSINESS EMAIL - closerlives@gmail.com BUSINESS and BLOG WEBSITE CloserLives - https://www.closerlives.com OUR ETSY SHOP CloserLivesEmporium - check out our AMAZING gear https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/CloserLivesEmporium?ref=seller-platform-mcnav JENN INSTA - https://www.instagram.com/writings_of_an_ex_mrs/ LEON INSTA - https://www.instagram.com/leon.gregori213/ JENN FB - https://www.facebook.com/writingsofamrsjennifer/ LEON FB - https://www.facebook.com/leon.gregori213 JENN'S BLOGS - https://writingsofamrs.wordpress.com https://writingsofamrsmommy.wordpress.com Load More Romantic love story of two poets who found love online and now travel the world A tale told from the beginnings of heartbreak to an epic journey crossing continents and now slow travelling the world as nomads & teachers! 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