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Balat, Istanbul – A Month Among Colorful Streets, Cobblestones & Café Culture
- Jenn & Leon
- Oct 27
- 9 min read
Updated: 4 days ago
We didn’t plan to stay in Balat. In fact, it was never part of the itinerary.
But a twist of timing and a travel restriction turned an Istanbul layover into one of the most memorable chapters of our journey.
After six incredible months in Mexico, our visas had run their course. The plan was simple: fly to London, spend time in England, and reconnect with home after nearly two years away.
But just two weeks before our flight, Mexico was suddenly placed on (at the time) the UK’s COVID red list.
A mandatory hotel quarantine was going to cost thousands of pounds, so instead of boarding our connecting flight, we decided to stay put in Istanbul.
That decision led us to Balat—a neighborhood that felt like stepping inside a painting.
In this post, we share our month-long stay in Balat, Istanbul. It's a neighborhood where colorful homes, cobbled streets, and café culture tell the story of old meeting new.
You’ll discover its fascinating history, the best cafés to visit, must-see landmarks like the Bulgarian Iron Church and Fener Greek Orthodox College, plus our tips for walking, eating, and staying safe in one of Istanbul’s most photogenic districts.
The Backstory of How We Got Here
When we first met, Jenn was living in Canada and Leon in England. After years of long-distance flights, Leon quit his job, rented out his house, and moved to Canada in 2019.
Then came the pandemic. While the world closed down, we were lucky enough to stay together under a special visa amnesty, spending 18 months in Canada and another 6 months in Mexico before landing in Turkey—our second country on our full-time travel journey.
Balat was our first taste of Europe and the Middle East rolled into one, and we couldn’t have picked a better place to begin.
With our love for history and tradition, the sound of a neighborhood like Balat seemed to have the perfect appeal. It certainly didn't disappoint! Let's take a closer look at the history...
A Glimpse into Balat’s Past
Located along the Golden Horn, Balat is one of Istanbul’s oldest neighborhoods. Once home to Jewish, Greek, and Armenian communities, its narrow streets are lined with wooden Ottoman houses that tell stories from long ago.
The district’s name is believed to come from “palation,” the Greek word for “palace,” a nod to its proximity to the Byzantine Blachernae Palace. Indeed the Airbnb we stayed in was aptly named... Palation House. More on that later.
Balat and the nearby Fener district were the center of the Greek Orthodox world in Constantinople for hundreds of years. During the Byzantine era, this area was a busy center of trade and religion where Greek merchants and clergy lived next to Armenian and Jewish families.
After the Ottomans took over in 1453, the Greeks of Fener and Balat were given some freedom under the millet system. This allowed them to maintain their religious institutions and traditions.
The Phanariots were powerful Greek families who became translators, diplomats, and administrators in the Ottoman court. They came about because of this unusual coexistence.
Their importance affected politics in places far away from Istanbul, especially in the Balkans and Eastern Europe.
Balat and Fener became centers of both spiritual and political power. But this peace was not strong. As nationalist movements spread through the late Ottoman Empire, the different groups in the empire became more and more at odds with each other.
Many Greek families had to leave their homes in Balat after the Greco-Turkish War (1919–1922) and the population exchange of 1923. This was the end of a chapter that had lasted for hundreds of years.
Their beautiful homes, churches, and schools still stand today, silently telling the story of a time when cultures mixed and thrived along the Golden Horn.
Balat has changed from a simple working-class neighborhood to one of Istanbul's most beautiful and artistic neighborhoods over the years.
Restoration work has brought back its pastel-colored facades, cobblestone streets, and old storefronts, making it a living museum of the city's multicultural history.
Why Balat is Famous
Wander through Balat and you’ll see why photographers and dreamers flock here. Rows of pastel-colored houses climb steep hills, each with its own story.
Antique shops spill into the streets, cats stretch across steps painted in rainbow hues, and the air smells of strong coffee and freshly baked simit.
It’s not just pretty façades, though. Balat holds a deep sense of place—a neighborhood where old traditions and new creativity coexist beautifully.
⪢ Perfect for Instagram / Social Media
Balat is also one of Istanbul’s most Instagrammed neighborhoods, and it’s easy to see why. The rainbow-colored houses on Kiremit Street and the famous Incir Ağacı Steps (Rainbow Stairs) have become symbols of the area’s creative revival.
Once quiet residential streets, they’re now backdrops for travelers, photographers, and locals capturing the district’s vibrant spirit.
The İncir Ağacı Kahvesi, perched just above the steps, is another hotspot—its pastel walls, fig tree canopy, and colorful seating make it an unmissable stop for both coffee and photos.
But beyond the social media fame, these corners reflect Balat’s true charm: the harmony of old and new, where art, community, and history coexist in the open air.
It’s not only the houses that burst with color—look closely and you’ll find street art tucked between shopfronts and alleyways.
From modern murals to subtle stencils, Balat’s graffiti adds another layer to its personality, blending urban creativity with centuries-old architecture.
Many local artists use these walls to celebrate Istanbul’s diversity and resilience, turning every stroll into a small open-air gallery.
💡 Good to know: Visit early in the morning to capture Balat’s colors in soft light and avoid the midday crowds at the steps. Weekdays are quieter, offering a more authentic glimpse of local life before the photographers arrive.
Our Home in the Yellow House
We stayed for a month in an Airbnb located in the famous yellow house—one of the most photographed façades in the district.
Every morning, we’d open our balcony to a flood of camera shutters and laughter from tourists below.
A street vendor would pass by selling simit, the sesame-covered Turkish bread ring, calling out to the neighborhood in rhythmic tones.
It became our daily ritual to buy one, sip Turkish tea, and watch the cobbled streets come to life. This was exactly the kind of cultural and traditional experience we were looking for!
Check out our Airbnb tour and more from Balat in the video below.
Balat’s Highlights
⪢ St. Stephen’s Bulgarian Iron Church
Just a five-minute walk from our apartment, this striking all-metal church is one of Istanbul’s architectural marvels.
Made entirely of prefabricated cast iron, it was shipped from Vienna in the 19th century and remains one of the few iron churches in the world. (This one deserves its own post later—stay tuned.)
⪢ Fener Greek Orthodox College
Often mistaken for a castle, this red-brick structure is among Istanbul’s most imposing landmarks.
Its grandeur dominates the skyline and reflects the neighborhood’s deep-rooted Greek heritage.
⪢ The Streets Themselves
Every lane in Balat feels like a storybook. Graffiti murals meet old wooden doors; antique stores share walls with boutique cafés.
Despite whispers that it’s unsafe at night, we spent countless evenings walking home with no issues—the only near-miss was narrowly dodging the old “dropped brush” shoe-shiner scam we’d seen on YouTube.
Café Hopping in Balat
Balat’s café culture is as colorful as its streets. While every corner offers something different, a few places became part of our daily rhythm:
Café Dora
Our favorite cafe, especially for breakfast. The owners became friends, their kindness a reflection of Turkish hospitality.
Pier Café & Restaurant
Perfect for sipping Turkish tea while watching the light shift across the Golden Horn. The smoothies here are excellent too.
The Velvet Café
Vintage interiors, Turkish coffee served with a smile, cozy corners, and a great rear courtyard too.
Incir Agacı Kahvesi
Known for its rainbow steps and cozy charm, İncir Ağacı Kahvesi is Balat’s most photogenic café.
A Month of Local Life
Balat wasn’t just somewhere we stayed; it became a small window into Istanbul’s heart.
We cooked in our small but comfortable apartment, shopped in neighborhood markets, and made friends with café owners who welcomed us like family.
We often walked as far as Fatih Mosque, or even all the way to Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and the Grand Bazaar—about 50 minutes on foot.
It was in those long walks that we began to feel Istanbul’s soul: layered, chaotic, and endlessly beautiful.
Tips for Visiting Balat
● Best Time to Visit: Morning light is ideal for photography; evenings are best for cafés and sunsets over the Golden Horn. September in Istanbul brings warm light that softens the pastel houses, gentle breezes off the Golden Horn, and a lively yet unhurried rhythm in the streets.
● How to Get There: Take bus 55T or 99A to Fener, or a ferry to Balat Pier. From Sultanahmet, it’s about 20–30 minutes by foot.
● What to Eat: Try simit from street vendors, menemen for breakfast, and baklava from a local bakery. There are also plenty of options on the main high street area, including groceries, bakers, and restaurants.
● Safety: Balat is generally safe. Some have speculated that it is dangerous at night, but we saw no evidence of this.
● Getting Around: The cobblestone hills towards the north of the district can be steep—wear comfortable shoes and keep an eye on where you are stepping. The main area where the cafes and stores are located is generally flat.
⪢ Watch on YouTube
In this video, we show you some great locations, including the Velvet Cafe, Marginal Flower Shop, the Balat Cafe, the colorful stairs and homes, and some other cute spots we found!
Where to Stay in Balat
Looking for a place to stay nearby? Browse Balat hotel deals below to find great rates from top providers in the area.
Our map offers a user-friendly interface that allows you to zoom in and out, providing a comprehensive view of the area and enabling you to identify the most convenient hotel options based on your current location or desired destination.
FAQs for Balat, Istanbul
Is Balat worth visiting in Istanbul?
Yes, it’s one of Istanbul’s most atmospheric neighborhoods, full of color, history, and café culture.
What is Balat known for?
Its colorful houses, cobblestone lanes, antique shops, and multicultural heritage.
Is Balat safe at night?
Generally yes, though it’s quieter after dark. Take usual precautions and stick to main streets.
Can you go inside the Fener Greek Orthodox College?
No, it’s not open to the public, but it’s stunning from the outside.
How far is Balat from Sultanahmet?
Roughly 5 km (a 20–30 minute taxi or bus ride).
What’s the best photo spot in Balat?
The colorful steps and houses on Kiremit Street are the most famous.
Can you visit the Bulgarian Iron Church?
Yes, and it’s free to enter.
When’s the best time to visit Balat?
Spring and autumn offer the best weather for walking and photography.
Are the colorful houses real homes?
Yes, many are lived in or rented out on Airbnb — including ours!
How long should you spend in Balat?
At least half a day, but staying a few nights lets you feel its rhythm.
Our Experience Rating:
Balat, Istanbul
Balat is one of those areas that can be difficult to leave! It literally ticks all of the boxes for travelers or nomads, and even for general tourists, in our opinion.
You get the perfect mix here: all of the traditions you may be looking for—Turkish food, Turkish coffee, street sellers, markets, and plenty in-between.
You get the full-on Turkish cafe experience—excellent service, strong coffee, and plenty of sweet treats. Each one is beautifully decorated and inviting.
You get friendly stores, warm owners, and a sense of community, even as a foreigner. As you wander the streets, ancient buildings mingle with modern infusions, adding to the historic feel.
Here in Balat, you will get the real Turkey: a place packed with thousands of years and layers of an ever-evolving, fiercely proud, loyal, and traditional people. All just waiting to welcome you (usually with a Turkish tea in hand!).
● Atmosphere: 5/5
● Café Culture: 5/5
● Hospitality: 5/5
● Walkability: 4/5 (bring comfy shoes!)
● Overall: 4.5/5
We explored a lot of Istanbul during our time here, and we can say with confidence that Balat is one of the most vibrant and colorful out there. This is a perfect place to stay, to springboard to the sights, enjoy the traditions and soak up life in Turkey. Highly, highly recommend.