Ohrid, the Jerusalem of the Balkans, home to Europe's oldest lake
Updated: Mar 31
If you do not know about this incredible place then we think you should! This is our story from the quaint town of Ohrid, which straddles one of the deepest and oldest lakes in Europe. With such great history, stretching back to Roman times, this place of crystal clear fresh water, terracotta tiles and views for miles is culture with style and certainly worthwhile!
We both just love being by the water and after a couple of weeks in the land locked capital of Tirana, Albania Jenn thought it would be a great shout to hop on a bus and take the relatively easy 2 hour ride to North Macedonia. Looking to take a 'vacation' we booked some time off from teaching and started an 11 day break first with a trip to Durres (in Albania) before taking the bus from Tirana all the way to Ohrid.
Read on for the highlights of our very special five days here, the food, things to do, nightlife, history, and details about our Airbnb stay.
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Our Ohrid highlights
We were both excited to be adding another country to our list. North Macedonia (or just Macedonia in some quarters) is a place with a very rich Mediterranean, European and Balkan vibe and an exceptional history.
Ohrid itself is littered with protected sites and is one of those places that literally seems to just transport you back in time. A perfect place for Jenn and I then! Greek, Roman, Slav, Ottoman; so many empires have held interest here and we hope this blog will show you why, and why this is an awesome getaway location!
For those of you that are new here, first of all a big thank you! Secondly, you may not know but we both have an intense curiosity and passion for the ancient past. We love all things Roman and Egyptian and with trips to Venice and Rome recently we were excited to see the Roman influence in Ohrid. We were not disappointed!
With the aforementioned bright orange clay roof tiles that seem to be on every building, the ancient Roman Amphitheatre, the vast quantity of incredibly beautiful churches and the ancient Samuel's Fortress, Ohrid just seemed to be the place that kept on giving.
Ohrid is one of just 28 sites in the world that appears on two UNESCO World Heritage lists, both for Natural and Historical value. More on that later!
We took a Eurobus from Tirana Bus Station and it was a small but very comfortable minivan. The booking experience was relatively simple and we were able to download a QR code which we showed to the driver upon boarding.
There was no additional cost in Albania but it is worth noting that in Ohrid we were charged a couple of dollars transport tax before we could board for the return trip. You will need cash for this as they did not accept card payments. The bus (or coach as we had on the way back) will take you directly across the border and took around 2 hours.
The drive through the mountains was actually really beautiful, if not for the occasional pothole or two. The border crossing was also very straight forward; the driver took our passports at the border, returned them to us shortly after, and then we were made to get out and have them checked again before continuing on our way. That was pretty much it!
On the way back into Albania from North Macedonia it was even easier; we did not even have to get off of the bus. Overall we would definitely give our Eurobus experience a big thumbs up for price and ease of cross border travel.
Keep reading for more on the best time to visit, the food we tried, things to do, and our Airbnb accommodation!
Read more: How to take the bus from Tirana, Albania across the border to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia
We show you how to cross this land border, useful travel tips, how to find Tirana Bus Station (it is not that easy) and bus ticket info!
The weather in Ohrid
The temperature was very nice throughout our stay and overall we would say the weather was good. We were here on the second week of July and when we arrived the beauty of the lake and Ohrid was slightly overshadowed by grey clouds and skies on our first day. Despite being overcast we could just about get away with our arms out; albeit a little cool at 20 degrees.
We took a long hike around the town to see the sights (that we will talk about later on) and we have to admit that while our photos and videos may have been hampered by the impending rain clouds, it was actually quite nice to be sightseeing and not sweating for a change! At the end of it all we stopped at our no 1 restaurant pick (more on that too) and spent dinner toying with the prospect of staying longer and waiting out the rain or making a dash for home.
Needless to say we got absolutely soaked! When we say torrential we mean torrential! That being said for the rest of our time here the sun was out in full force and it was very pleasant indeed. The second week of July, make a note!
The best time to visit Ohrid is June to September. Temperatures average between 20 degrees Celsius (68°F) and 26 degrees Celsius (79°F) during this time and the wettest month is November. July has the most sunshine while August is the warmest.
Ohrid nightlife
We had a great location in terms of accommodation as we were just two blocks from the waterfront. We went out a couple of times towards the end of the evening and both experiences were really nice in their own way! With something for everyone, there are a couple of bars and a casino open late. There is not a vast amount of restaurant options but in all honesty there does not really need to be. The balance felt perfect!
The balance between cafes and food was nice and the evenings felt raucous, but more busy than rowdy. It actually made it feel quite safe, allowing for us to admire the transition from dusk to night at the end of the stone dock. That was one of our favorite evenings as we also took a peek at the main street where all the activity was happening, being presently surprised to find Thomas the Tank Engine, some Dutch pancakes and a very large couple of classic hot dogs. That is coming up!
Everything in Ohrid is presented beautifully as you can see! The gardens are manicured and well groomed; at night they are illuminated with well positioned spotlights. It is quite the sight as your eyes are drawn by the color of the flowers, gazing over them before being captured by the vast statues of glorious people of times gone by. The hubs of activity amongst the main street with the stalls, and the restaurants that hug the mountain to the left, keep the main central gardens more quiet. An evening stroll through these is highly recommended!
Food & Restaurants in Ohrid
We only visited two restaurants while here in Ohrid and the main reason for that was because the first place we went to was Restaurant Cun; we ended up going there four times in barely five days! We did manage to pack in a couple of other neat little options so here they go in no particular order (apart from no 1) -
Restaurant Cun
Restaurant Cun looks and feels five star and in the most part the service was impeccable. Most importantly though, the food was delicious and well served and garnished. It has a fantastic view of Lake Ohrid, with ground floor and balcony seating options. It is very nicely decorated too and gives a really neat Macedonian vibe amongst its wooden beams, flowers and subtle lighting. We really enjoyed the seamless indoor outdoor feel of it.
Leon highly recommends the chicken curry and English breakfast; Jenn would recommend the traditional beef stew. There is a great menu with lots of options and we tried several other delicious dishes too.
On our final visit here on a Wednesday afternoon / evening there was a really nice traditional live music band performing songs from the region. Sadly we did not catch it during our meal as it was the first time we sat upstairs, but it sounded great!
Le Petit Bistro Lihnidos
We did not eat here but the food looks pretty good to be fair. We just wanted to grab a couple of drinks after our morning hike and this is a great spot with a really lovely view being directly outside the main Gardens of Ohrid.
The drinks were reasonably priced and there are plenty of options with wines, beers, cocktails and hot drinks. We shared a few Whiskeys here and even though it was busy due to being lunchtime, the service was good. Our overall impression is that it is a clean, good location for drinks or food and we will definitely try more next time. Check out their menu here.
Dutch Pancakes and Hot Dogs
As Jenn says, this was one of those moments where something was totally unexpected but gratefully accepted! As mentioned earlier we took a stroll on the main street which was really vibrant with lots of food stalls, pearl and gift sellers and train rides for kids. It had all of the feel you get with a carnival or fair. Yes, there were arcade machines too!
Our walk here actually started a few minutes away at the stone dock when Leon mentioned a craving for some kind of sugary donut treat. Do you find being by the water synonymous with those tiny amazing smelling fresh donuts you always seem to find somewhere nearby? They totally remind us of our childhood and perhaps it was a whiff he caught that sent us on our mission!
So as you can see we actually ended up finding a delightful Dutch pancake stall, and after an understandably long patient wait in the queue we got front row seats to the slow making of these delicious treats. Amongst the tranche of incredibly tempting options with words like Nutella, cream, chocolate, caramel etc almost jumping out from the sign and directly into our mouths, Leon kind of instantly plumped for white chocolate and cherry as our topping. So just know that the picture of them served does not show that these are eight individual, almost blini like pancakes. With each one the flavour and texture is to die for! Get these!!!
During our wait for the pancakes we also grabbed a couple of hot dogs from the stall next to it. They were bigger than expected but very decent for the price, and if you are hungry these jumbo dogs will definitely do the job tucked in nicely between the sides of a pretty hunky split bread roll.
Giro Letnica
On the way to the waterfront via the main road we walked past this almost street vendor like Giro food stop. The prices are very affordable and the food is great for a grab and go. They have pork, chicken or mixed Giro options and although we wouldn't rave about it, it would be perfect if you are here on a budget or just passing through.
Things to do in Ohrid
There is plenty to do in Ohrid and even though we packed in all of the activities you see below in 4 days, it felt like we went at a good pace and did not rush. From our handy accommodation location everything was within walking distance and even our trek to Samuel's Fortress was no longer than about an hour round trip. So in no particular order:
Take a lake boat cruise
There is a whole host of tour boat operators ready and waiting to tempt you whenever you pass the main walking area by the dock in front of the city gardens.
We chose Azzurro Catamaran Cruising which seemed to be the largest operator. The tour time was around 6 hours and advertised 6 locations around the lake, several of which are only able to be visited by boat. They included the Church of St John Kaneo, Radozda Village and Trpejca Village. St Naum is the main destination and we stopped for over two hours there, enjoying the beautiful monastery and beach (including a customary swim in the lake!).
We also passed by the Bay of Bones (a museum that is unfortunately closed on Mondays which they DID NOT tell us about when we enquired on the Saturday prior). We were really drawn to this place when we originally saw the leaflet and it was a shame not to check out the museum but the views were super cool. Our captain gave us a good insight into the history of the place too which we will share in a future YouTube video!
We docked at the Church Mother of God Zahumska Monastery for a short while and both of these locations are beautiful to see and really give you a feel for this wonderful jewel of a place in Macedonia.
We were a tad disappointed that we were also due to visit the town of Struga but for reasons unexplained this also did not happen. However the boat driver was great and friendly, we were offered complimentary drinks and the ride across the lake was fun and afforded wonderful views. We would highly recommend this activity, just perhaps insist on confirming the locations first and do not go on a Monday if you would like to see the museum at the Bay of Bones (all museums are closed on this day by the way).
St Naum Monastery is a must see on this tour (you will be dropped off at St Naum) and affords amazing views of the lake along with a good looking restaurant, and even a free-roaming peacock! Like all of the churches here it has a great history and its excellent condition is a testament to its construction.
The tour is definitely worth doing for the price. For what you get, it is very reasonable and we would highly recommend this activity.
TOUR COST: 15 - 25 Euros / 900 - 1500 Macedonian Denar
OPERATING TIMES: 10/10.30am - 4/4.30pm Monday - Sunday
We had the pleasure of meeting this beautiful peacock while we were visiting the St Naum Monastery on our cruise. Just free roaming around the site going about its business was a sight to behold! Unfortunately we did not get a display but this was good enough; how often do you get this close to a peacock in your life? Not that much for us so this was a super cool treat. What an amazing bird!
Boardwalk on Potpesh Beach
We did not catch this neat little boardwalk on a sunny day but that was okay! It was still a cool place to visit and was a cool scenic route on the way up to the Church of St John at Kaneo. If you head here from the main road by the boat dock you will also pass the Church of St Sophia and a host of beautiful cobbled streets amongst the lovely houses of Old Town.
COST: Free
OPERATING TIMES: Anytime
The Ancient Amphitheatre of Ohrid
You will find this awesome historical site almost at the foot of the hill on the way down / up to Samuels Fortress in Old Town. If you like Roman history like we do, then this is the place to go!
It is said to have been constructed around 200 BC and was adapted to house exotic animals at some point, with several 'cages' carved into the rock base of the central seating area. The theatre has a chequered history; according to the local records it was used not just for gladiatorial events but also for executions by the Romans. It was abandoned for this reason and was only re-discovered in 1980.
COST: Free
OPERATING TIMES: Anytime
Church of Saint Sophia
Located in the heart of Old Town this Church dates back to the Bulgarian Empire and is considered one of the most important monuments in North Macedonia due to its history.
It was converted by the Ottomans to a mosque and then back to a church, holds many frescos dating back to the 11th century and has a beautiful garden area.
This church is on the way to the boardwalk and is a good place to stop off with a restaurant and café nearby too, alongside some pearl and souvenir stalls. An interesting fact is that it also appears on a 1000 Denar banknote!
We did not go inside on this occasion but we will save that for our next visit here for sure.
COST: Free
OPERATING TIMES: Anytime
Tsar Samuel's Fortress
At the top of the hill of Old Town the well preserved walls of one of Ohrid's most popular attractions, Samuel's Fortress, loom over the city. It is advised that you take this trip early morning or late afternoon (on a sunny day) as it is a steep hill and the sun can be extremely hot! Plus do not forget to bring water!
We made our way up through the town park which hugs the cliffside, following a path / trail directly from the Church of St John at Kaneo. You can also make your way up from the town with a cobbled road leading up from the Amphitheatre.
Ohrid was actually the capital of the first Macedonian Empire and the fortress was built by Tsar Samuel in the 11th century. There is evidence that it was actually constructed on an original fortification dating back to the 4th century, most likely commissioned by King Philip II of Macedon. It has been destroyed and rebuilt many times, falling to the Romans, Byzantines, Slavs and Ottoman Turks. Fully restored in 2003 after again falling into disrepair, it is an incredible piece of history and well worth checking out.
COST: 1.50 Euro / 80 Macedonian Denar
OPERATING TIMES: Anytime
Church of St John at Kaneo (aka St John the Theologian)
It is not known when this church was originally built but it is thought to be sometime around the 13th century. It survived the conquest of the city by the Ottomans and while it is not open to visitors, it is one of the most picturesque locations you will find in all of Ohrid and you are free to roam its garden grounds, wonderfully perched atop a protruding cliff surrounded by the lake.
When you get to the church be sure to head up to the higher vantage point just behind it to grab that postcard photo shot! It is from here that you will also find the single path that leads through the park and all the way to Samuel's Fortress.
COST: Free (visitors are not allowed inside but are free to roam the grounds)
OPERATING TIMES: Anytime
Visit the Old Town, the bazaar and or have a swim!
No visit to Ohrid would be complete without perusing the many stores of the main street bazaar, selling a little bit of everything, but in particular the world famous Ohrid Pearls. It is even said that Queen Elizabeth II has some in her personal collection!
Take a walk around old town and see how many churches you can spot (they are in even the most obscure locations) or head for a stroll amongst the plush greens and lake side towards golden beach. You can jump into the water pretty much anywhere too! We had our swim at St Naum during our boat cruise and we have to tell you, the water was fantastic!
We also saw a sign for some springs located at the end of the lakeside walk to the left of the city gardens (if you were looking out towards the lake). We did not go this time but no doubt it would have been great to check out.
The history of Ohrid
Known as Lykhnidos by the Greeks in the 2nd Century BCE, Ohrid was devastated by an earthquake in the 5th Century and was rebuilt in the main by the Romans. Be it Greek, Turkish, Roman, Bulgarian or Slav, Ohrid has been much contested and to this day actually sits in the middle of the Albania - Macedonia border. Ohrid's big claim to fame is its natural lake being the deepest of all the Balkans countries, It also happens to be one of the oldest lakes in all of Europe!
The natural beauty of the lake is striking and the ancient towns that line it are beautiful and authentic in their own right. Amongst the rolling green hills and powerful tree topped mountain peaks sit these towns in valleys that are only accessible by boat.
In Ohrid, the bright orange clay tiles on the roofs compliment winding narrow cobbles streets, almost Tudor like timber framed houses with protruding levels and some of the oldest almost hidden churches you are likely to ever see. All of the homes and buildings seem to be adorned with color, mainly in the form of flowers, and it all feels a little like you are stepping back in time here.
It is said that there were once 365 churches in Ohrid, one for each day of the year. While not all of them have survived, in particular during the period of Ottoman Rule, the ones that do are of exceptional architectural importance and heritage. So much so that it was awarded UNESCO status on a cultural and natural level, one of only 28 places in the world to carry such a status as mentioned earlier.
The 'Jerusalem of the Balkans' as Ohrid is known, is the eight largest city in all of North Macedonia and is popular for its fishing and tourism industries. Its culture and heritage is clearly evident and alongside its surrounding towns it is a place that will no doubt continue to grow in relevance as a reminder of empires past. The biodiversity, ecosystem and geology of the lake is of significant scientific importance too and this status will hopefully keep it preserved and protected for future generations.
Our Ohrid accommodation
Our one bedroom apartment was about a 5 minute walk away from the lake and was handily very close to a bank, supermarket and pharmacy. It was the perfect spot if you just need a base for a week and plan on exploring and being outside everyday. It was freshly decorated to a good finish, and had a Juliet balcony too. It was very clean and comfortable and had a good bathroom and kitchenette. Our host was great and was kind enough to pick us up from the bus station upon arrival, and even gave us a lift there at 7am on the morning of our departure. Not having to worry about taxis was a nice touch for sure!
A minor disadvantage here was that the internet was not the best, although we knew that prior to arrival as Jenn always checks beforehand with our Airbnb hosts. It was fine for social media but not the best for streaming movies and definitely not for working digital nomads like us! We were on vacation so it was not a problem though. Our host however is looking to upgrade it to the apartment only in the future as it is currently shared amongst other residents in the block. With that in mind we would easily return for a longer stay!
Another downside was that the elevator was broken, which given we were on the fifth floor was a bit of a bind. But we did not mind the exercise in the end! The hallway and entrance were a bit lacking too however we have almost grown accustomed to this now, having experienced similar standards in the various places we stayed in Georgia and Albania. But in all honesty, as long as the apartment is good it doesn't really matter right!
Our accommodation rating
⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4/5
Overall we were very happy with our host and his apartment and we would have given a full five stars were it not for the elevator and internet issues. But that should not put you off; this experience was well worth it and you would not be disappointed here.
We explore one of the most ancient lakes in the the world, known as the 'Pearl of the Balkans'. Our highlights, history and YouTube video!
Our Ohrid experience rating
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5/5
Feel free to let us know your thoughts on Ohrid in the comments! We found this to be really solid getaway location; we were looking for a break from work and we found it here. There is definitely a good chill vibe with lots to see, great people and good food. It is hard to ignore the appeal of this very special historical place in North Macedonia.
We would love to hear from you and if you have any questions about Ohrid or our experience please do not hesitate to ask! We are always happy to help. As always a big thank you for following along on our journey!
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